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Amalfi is the largest and most historic town on its eponymous coastline. Between the 9th and 12th centuries the republic was at its height of mercantile power and the architecture still evokes that glory. The Duomo (cathedral) is glorious.

This little town exudes a quiet charm, with arcades and a maze of alley-stairways. Its church of San Salvatore de’ Bireto was where Amalfi’s doges received their investiture.

The ancient Greeks called the area Pausilypon (“respite from pain”) due to the great beauty of the place. Down through the ages, it retained its appeal through a succession of inhabitants and visitors, from religious communities in medieval times to holiday resorts for the Spanish aristocracy in the 17th century. The spartan years of the 1950s, however, finally put an end to that famous beauty in large swaths with the unregulated spread of ugly apartment buildings. Fortunately, parts of the area down by the water still retain considerable charm, mainly the 17th-century Villa Volpicelli, appearing like a floating castle at the water’s edge.

The fabled isle has had its detractors – it has been called “nothing more than a rocky cliff with over-priced cafés” – and, in ancient times, the notorious shenanigans of Tiberius gave it an enduring reputation as the ultimate in decadence, as did the party life here in the 1950s. Yet, if you choose to stay awhile, you will discover the real Capri beyond the hype – a world of traditional farm life, scenic hiking terrain and sparkling azure waters for swimming and boating. A place with undeniable allure for those who love the best of what life has to offer.

This port town has been known since ancient times for its thermal springs – the many different waters are each thought to be therapeutic in specific ways. As with its neighbours, its beauty has been compromised by poverty and developers in recent decades, but it is not without charm, particularly along the central promenade. Nearby, the ruins of aristocratic villas, Arianna and San Marco, offer glimpses into wealthy lifestyles of 2,000 years ago (see Herculaneum, Oplontis & Stabiae).

The main monument here is the 11th-century Badia della Santissima Trinità (Abbey of the Holy Trinity), housing paintings by De Matteis.

Home to the most active fishing fleet on the coast, this is also the only place to buy colatura di alici , a fish sauce that is a descendent of the ancient Roman one called garum .