Capri
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Ever since ancient times, this luxuriant, saddle-shaped rock in the Bay of Naples has captured the world’s imagination as a place where dreams can be realized and life can become an earthly paradise. Hopes and wishes notwithstanding, the island does have something special, perhaps generated by its sheer dramatic beauty, its crystal-clear waters and its lush vineyards and lemon and olive groves that seem to cover every available corner. The mythic power of Capri runs far deeper and warrants more exploration than the quick package-tour tone it sometimes strikes.
For details on ferry services to Capri, visit www.capritourism.com Ferries from Salerno, Amalfi and Positano only sail May–Sep Via Krupp is officially closed, due to the danger of falling rocks, but you may still see locals using it.
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1. Marina Grande
1. Marina GrandeWhether by ferry, hydro-foil or private yacht, virtually all visitors to the island arrive at this little port town. It’s a colourful place, but the bustle is only skin-deep – in reality it’s just as laid back as the rest of Capri.
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2. Capri Town
2. Capri TownPiazza Umberto I, known simply as “Piazzetta” is the town’s outdoor salon, filled to the brim with chic bars and restaurants. Night time is when the true Capri denizens come out to play.
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3. Villa Jovis
3. Villa JovisEmperor Tiberius’s 1st-century-AD villa is now in ruins but the views of the Bay of Naples, from the highest point at this end of the island, are dazzling.
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4. Arco Naturale
Follow signs from the centre of Capri Town for this easy-going walking trail, where a series of rocky staircases offer fine panoramas of the mainland coastline. The imposing Natural Arch itself consists of a huge limestone crag, jutting out and with the bright turquoise sea seen far below.
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6. Marina Piccola
This small harbour has private bathing huts, a pebbly arc of beach, wonderful rocks for diving from and several good fish restaurants.
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7. Monte Solaro
No trip to the island is complete without a funicular ride up to Capri’s highest peak, from which you can look down on the pastoral timelessness of lemon groves, little white houses, and endless flower gardens that cover the island. Once up top, the 360-degree views are breathtaking.
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8. Anacapri & Punta Carena
Before 1877, when the road was built, Anacapri was truly isolated and is still less pretentious than the rest of the island. From here, another great jaunt is to the lighthouse at Punta Carena, where an uncrowded rocky beach awaits, as well as good facilities and excellent restaurants.
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9. Blue Grotto
9. Blue GrottoThe island’s most famous attraction is this stunning sea-grotto, of a colour and intensity of blue that can be experienced in no other way. Local oarsmen ferry visitors inside.
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10. Villa San Michele
10. Villa San MicheleBuilt by a Swedish doctor on the site of one of Tiberius’s houses, this villa is an eclectic mix of Romanesque, Renaissance and Moorish styles, surrounded by gorgeous gardens.
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