This is one of the world’s most intensely emotive zones , where verdant-crowned cliffs plunge into the royal-blue sea. This is where the Homeric hero Ulysses went astray on his homeward voyage, daring to listen to the fateful song of the Sirens while his stalwart men, their ears plugged with wax, continued onward, away from charmed death. On these islands is where the Greeks first brought their high culture to the area, where Roman emperors lived in stupendous luxury, and where, in more recent times, the world’s most glamorous celebrities indulged in their own lavish lifestyles. When the American writer John Steinbeck first saw the Amalfi Coast he was moved to uncontrollable weeping. He was not the first – nor will he be the last – to succumb to the emotional impact of the potent beauty found here.
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Morning
The tour begins on the island of Procida. To get there, take either the first hydrofoil from Naples-Beverello or Naples-Mergellina or the first ferry from Pozzuoli, all of which take about 35 minutes. You will arrive at Marina Grande, greeted by the sight of fishing boats and the colourful houses lining the port. Take a quick hike to the island’s highest point, the Terra Murata (“walled town”).
Back down on the marina, enjoy some refreshment at Bar Capriccio (Via Roma 99) while waiting for your hydrofoil to Ischia.
On Ischia you will arrive at Casamicciola, the island’s second port, where you can have lunch at the wonderfully rustic Il Focolare (Via Cretaio 68).
Afternoon
After lunch embark on a tour around the island in a glass-bottom boat (departs 2:30pm), stopping at the town of Sant’Angelo for an hour. Here you can take in the views, lounge by the dockside or walk along the cliff above Maronti Beach.
At the end of your tour, you can opt to stay over in one of the hotels in Casamicciola, or take a hydro-foil back to the mainland. If you spend the night, the next morning take the only hydrofoil of the day to Capri departing at 10:40am. After riding the funicular up to Capri Town, follow the signs up to the ruins of Villa Tiberius for the breathtaking view.
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This 11th-century abbey is notable for its paintings by pupils of Luca Giordano.
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The approach to this disco is via a walkway excavated out of a seafront rock face, while the dance floor seems to be suspended above the waves. The decor includes ethnic masks and parrots.
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Every week the menu is different here, but expect such creations as warm rabbit salad or saffron ravioli with salmon.
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Located over the water, the bounty of the sea is, naturally, the speciality here. Options might include pesce spada (swordfish) or coda di rospo (monkfish).
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Amalfi is the largest and most historic town on its eponymous coastline. Between the 9th and 12th centuries the republic was at its height of mercantile power and the architecture still evokes that glory. The Duomo (cathedral) is glorious.
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Below the 19th-century church lies an area where you can see remains of a 4th-century Christian basilica.
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You’ll find both live music and disco here, in the cellar of a historic villa that belonged to a well-known Sorrentine poet and thinker. The atmosphere is terrific and there are excellent snacks too.
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This little town exudes a quiet charm, with arcades and a maze of alley-stairways. Its church of San Salvatore de’ Bireto was where Amalfi’s doges received their investiture.
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A favourite among both local youth and visitors, this little bar doubles as a club, sandwich shop and pizzeria , open until late. Don’t overlook the excellent desserts.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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