DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast : Naples: Toledo to Chiaia

The first impression of the area known as “royal naples” is of spaciousness and light. This is Naples’ showcase: a vision of how functional the city can be with due appreciation for its setting. Elegant architecture from various ages graces the terrain here, which is also home to one of the most authentic neighbourhoods, maritime Santa Lucia. Above it all, the Vomero district boasts a fine castle and monastery overlooking the bay and one of the city’s best parks, while to the west is the lively Mergellina district, with its working port and busy restaurants lined up along the coast.

To book tickets for the Teatro San Carlo, and for more information on its current productions, visit www.teatrosancarlo.it Don’t follow the Royal Naples itinerary on Sundays, when the Palazzo Reale is closed.

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A Day in Royal Naples

Morning

Begin your tour inside Galleria Umberto I, where you can enjoy a morning cappuccino at Caffè Roma (No. 25–6) and get a sense of the bustling optimism of 19th-century Naples. Coming out onto Via San Carlo, the elegant Neo-Classical façade of the Teatro San Carlo is directly across the street.

Go to the right and around the corner into Piazza del Plebiscito. On your right is the massive dome of the church of San Francesco di Paola , and on your left, Palazzo Reale (see Palazzo Reale, Naples). First walk over to the church, noting the bronze equestrian statues of kings Charles III and Ferdinand I, then go back across the piazza to the Royal Palace. Enter the courtyard and take the magnificent staircase up to the apartments.

Take a break for a snack or lunch at historic Gambrinus (see Caffè Gambrinus), just outside the piazza.

Afternoon

After lunch go back past the Teatro San Carlo and the palace gardens, and be sure not to miss the giant statues of the horse-tamers at the gate. Continue on down and across the lawns to the Castel Nuovo (see Castel Nuovo, Naples). Your visit here should include the views from the parapets.

Finally, head up Via Medina to the Caffetteria Medina , where you can enjoy a drink while admiring the Fountain of Neptune.
Aret’ a’ Palm

The name is Neapolitan for “behind the palm”, which is just where this bar is located, on a laid-back piazza. Crowds show up at this stylish spot for the mix of world music and jazzy sounds.
Around Midnight

This live jazz venue focuses on standards and classics most of the time, booking local performers from around Italy.
Associazione Scarlatti

This is the best of Naples’ small musical companies, offering classical chamber music and the occasional jazz group. A typical evening might feature the music of Debussy, Ravel, Chausson and Franck.
Augusteo

Musical comedies are a speciality at this theatre, which is also one of the few that may offer shows outside the usual season of October to May. A chance to see what contemporary productions are like, in line with the centuries-old tradition of excellent comic theatre in Naples.
Baracdero

This bar captures the charm of the Santa Lucia quarter, immortalized in one of the most famous Neapolitan songs. By the water, near Castel dell’Ovo, it’s great for hanging out and enjoying the views.
Bellini

Mainstream theatre and touring international musicals (usually in English) are featured here, as well as dance, local musicals and concerts. Recent international productions have included Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet and Fiddler on the Roof .
Bowinkel

One of Naples’ finest dealers in old books and prints. Expect to find Italian prints that are centuries-old as well as more modern ones, and a host of other Neapolitan memorabilia.
Bracco

Lively local productions, often in dialect. A typical season might include titles such as Una moglie coi baffi (A Moustachioed Wife) or Le sorprese del divorzio (The Surprises of Divorce).
Brandi

A Naples institution, laying claim to having invented the pizza margherita on the occasion of a visit from Italy’s Queen Margherita in 1889. There’s also a full restaurant menu.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20–30
- €30–40
- €40–50
- over €50