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Start the tour in the cool of the morning with a visit to Solfatara (opens 8:30am), the vast volcanic lava cap about 1 km (0.5 mile) north of the town. This stark, bizarre site will set the tone for the day’s musings on the ephemeral nature of all things. Next, head back towards town on the Via Vecchia di San Gennaro and take a quick left on Via Domiziana, which follows the ancient Roman road of basalt stones built to link Rome to Puteoli (Pozzuoli). Visit the Santuario di San Gennaro and see the spot where Naples’ patron saint met his martyrdom under Emperor Diocletian.
From here, turn back and go down Via Vecchia di San Gennaro to the Piscina Cardito, a 2nd-century cistern with a vaulted ceiling supported by pillars. Continue on to the great Anfiteatro Flavio and try to imagine what it might have been like, with full scenery and exotic beasts springing out of trapdoors. Next, follow Via Terracciano along to the Terme di Nettuno, huge terraced baths, and on the opposite slope the Ninfeo di Diana, a fountain that may have been part of the baths.
Work your way down towards the ancient port, most of it now underwater, to the Serapeum (market). Walk up onto the promontory, the Rione Terra, to visit the 2,000-year-old Duomo (cathedral).
Finally, enjoy a well-deserved lunch at the Antica Trattoria da Ciuffello (see Antica Trattoria da Ciuffello, Pozzuoli).
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