traveldk.com

Start the tour in the cool of the morning with a visit to Solfatara (opens 8:30am), the vast volcanic lava cap about 1 km (0.5 mile) north of the town. This stark, bizarre site will set the tone for the day’s musings on the ephemeral nature of all things. Next, head back towards town on the Via Vecchia di San Gennaro and take a quick left on Via Domiziana, which follows the ancient Roman road of basalt stones built to link Rome to Puteoli (Pozzuoli). Visit the Santuario di San Gennaro and see the spot where Naples’ patron saint met his martyrdom under Emperor Diocletian.

From here, turn back and go down Via Vecchia di San Gennaro to the Piscina Cardito, a 2nd-century cistern with a vaulted ceiling supported by pillars. Continue on to the great Anfiteatro Flavio and try to imagine what it might have been like, with full scenery and exotic beasts springing out of trapdoors. Next, follow Via Terracciano along to the Terme di Nettuno, huge terraced baths, and on the opposite slope the Ninfeo di Diana, a fountain that may have been part of the baths.

Work your way down towards the ancient port, most of it now underwater, to the Serapeum (market). Walk up onto the promontory, the Rione Terra, to visit the 2,000-year-old Duomo (cathedral).

Finally, enjoy a well-deserved lunch at the Antica Trattoria da Ciuffello (see Antica Trattoria da Ciuffello, Pozzuoli).

This seafood restaurant is known for its romantic atmosphere and wonderful views. The catches of the day are served up in sumptuous style.

Dine either inside or on the terrace in the garden. For a delicious experience, try the linguine alla marinara (egg pasta with seafood).

Overlooking the central piazza, this restaurant is well known for its grilled specialities. Their consummate zuppa di pesce (fish soup) is a meal all in itself.

The Romans tapped the geothermal properties of this extinct volcanic crater to build spas.

One of the chief marvels here is the Piscina Mirabile , a cistern used to collect water for the ancient port of Misenum.

This town’s pride and joy is the well-preserved Arch of Trajan, chronicling the Roman emperor’s civic works.

The ancient Greeks called the area Pausilypon (“respite from pain”) due to the great beauty of the place. Down through the ages, it retained its appeal through a succession of inhabitants and visitors, from religious communities in medieval times to holiday resorts for the Spanish aristocracy in the 17th century. The spartan years of the 1950s, however, finally put an end to that famous beauty in large swaths with the unregulated spread of ugly apartment buildings. Fortunately, parts of the area down by the water still retain considerable charm, mainly the 17th-century Villa Volpicelli, appearing like a floating castle at the water’s edge.