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A number of general websites can help you research exactly which parts and how much of this fascinating area you want to cover during your visit. Bear in mind that the official, locally tended sites are mostly in Italian only.

July and August are relentlessly hot and humid, with temperatures around 30°–40°C (85°–105ºF), in addition to which most of Italy will be on holiday with you. The best weather is generally found in spring and autumn. Rain can definitely come into the picture in March, April and September. Winter months can be cold, dark and rainy, but with clear views of Vesuvius dusted with snow.

For culture, go in the winter, when you’ll get a real feel for local life. For swimming, you can’t avoid the hot months, but to side-step the crowds, September is a better bet than July and August. For appreciating the sheer beauty of the natural setting and the quality of life, any time of year is ideal.

Citizens of the EU, the US, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and Japan need no visa for stays of up to three months. For longer stays you should apply at the local questura (police station) for a permesso di soggiorno . Other nationalities should check entry details at their local embassy or consulate.

Italian consulates in your home country can be good sources of more detailed information, including tourism, employment and residency in Italy.

For brochures, maps and upcoming events, contact the Italian Tourist Board in your home country.

Offices of the Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno (ASST) will provide you with free maps and brochures. Other tourist offices, run by the Ente Provinciale del Turismo (EPT), are located in key spots.

Italy is on GMT + 1 hour; daylight saving time is observed from spring to autumn. Electricity is 220V and outlets require plugs with two round prongs, so you may need an adapter and a transformer.

EU nationals are automatically entitled to medical care in Italy, but will need the E111 form available from post offices. Other nationalities should take out travel insurance, to cover both health and property.

Naples’ airport is linked to all major Italian cities and many European ones. Airlines that fly from the UK include British Airways and easyJet. Alitalia is the main carrier within Italy.

There are few intercontinental flights to Naples. Most visitors fly to Rome and then connect by air or land. The airport is located just 8 km (5 miles) from the central train station and about twice that distance from the ferry and hydrofoil ports. Bus services into town are available, as are taxis.

Travel agents have access to systems that will enable you to compare deals offered by different charter airlines. However, specials offered by major airlines can often be cheaper than those of the budget carriers.

Given the glamorous port destinations, cruise packages are very popular, as are land packages that focus on the archaeological and cultural themes. The advantage of package tours is that everything is seen to, allowing you to keep at arm’s length from potential confusion when encountering the local way of life.

Reaching the area by car is possible but it is by no means advisable for the uninitiated. As you hit Naples, there are so many perplexing interchanges, with inadequate signage, that most newcomers will find themselves promptly lost.

If you are coming to the area from Sardinia, Sicily, the Aeolian Islands, other Mediterranean ports, or on a cruise, this mode is a pleasant option, either by ferry or hydrofoil. You will see all the beauties of the bay and receive an impression of Naples at its most sophisticated.

Regular buses and coaches are a reasonable way to get to Naples and other towns in the area. If arriving by bus in Naples you will find yourself in one of the main squares, Piazza Garibaldi, in front of the train station.

EuroStar trains, introduced some years ago, are now the only ones that have any chance of arriving on time, since they are given precedence over all others when track tie-ups occur. Most stop at both Mergellina and Garibaldi stations. All other services are options, but expect delays. The journey time from Rome to Naples by train is between two and three hours.

The minimum age for renting a car is 25, and most companies require that you be covered for any eventual problem, including collision damage and theft. But again, driving in this region is not particularly recommended for novices or nervous drivers.

The main sights of central Naples are close enough to each other that walking is the top choice for getting around. Bring a sturdy pair of shoes, that provide solid support on the uneven pavements and cobbles.

The city buses in Naples are not for the faint-hearted. The system is chaotic and the old buses are dirty, crowded and subject to traffic jams. Most bus lines have their terminus at Piazza Garibaldi. Buy tickets from any local bar before boarding. Open-top, hopon hop-off sightseeing buses depart from Piazza Municipio and are a fun way to discover the city.

Naples and its vicinity has a complex but reliable system of trains, including trams, funicular railways and three local light railways that serve outlying areas. Trams run along the shore and the funiculars go up to Vomero, while the Circumvesuviana goes all the way to Sorrento, with many stops along the way, including the major archaeological sites such as Pompeii. The Cumana and Circumflegreo go west to the Campi Flegrei. There’s also a metro system, and most of these lines converge conveniently at the central station.

For most, getting around the area by car is likely to stress even the calmest of drivers – private cars are not allowed on Capri, traffic jams on the Sorrentine Peninsula and the Amalfi Coast are maddening, car theft is common, and the motorways are chaotic.

This is a fine idea for getting around Ischia, and possibly the archaeological areas west of Naples, but elsewhere you will run into the same problems as you would by car. Narrow, curving roads lined with too many vehicles are the major problems.

Once here, you could stick to hydrofoils, going from port to port – Naples has two, then there are the islands, Pozzuoli, Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Salerno – and doing your sightseeing entirely on foot. By private boat, of course, your options increase enormously.

Almost without exception, taxi drivers in Naples are dishonest and will try to find ways to increase your tab shamelessly. A favourite trick is to fiddle the meter so that it charges the rate for out-of-town travel, or they simply invent “surcharges”. It’s always best to spend a moment settling the cost of the trip in advance, meter or no meter, especially with lengthy waits in traffic.

The driving in Naples and any built-up area is far too crazy to allow for safe bicycle travel. However, it’s a definite option on the islands of Procida and Ischia, as well as on some of the mountainous backroads along the Sorrentine Peninsula and remoter areas west of Naples.

On the islands, there’s no better way to really get to know the secrets of the shoreline and the smaller grottoes than to rent your own kayak. You can circumnavigate Capri, for example, in about 4 or 5 hours, including stops for a swim at secluded spots. Take a supply of drinking water and slather on waterproof sunscreen beforehand.

As lovely as the Bay of Naples is, parts of it are quite polluted and you should heed warning signs. If an area is posted “vietato” it is probably not safe to swim or fish there. Air pollution can also be a problem in hot, dry seasons in Naples proper, so anyone who suffers from respiratory conditions should bring along suitable medication. The tap water is usually safe to drink but, in general, bottled water will taste better.

In hot weather always choose reputable-looking bars and restaurants if you plan on having anything to eat that involves mayonnaise or fish of any kind. Food-poisoning is not a common problem here, but eating things that have gone off can spoil your holiday faster than almost any other factor.

When visiting churches remember to dress respectfully and to conduct yourself in a quiet manner that will not offend any worshippers who may be present. This is extremely important during services of any kind – weddings and masses, for example – when many churches discourage sightseers altogether.

Wherever there are crowds, there are pick-pockets. This includes trains, subways, buses, hydrofoils, streets and museums. Such petty thieves are very shrewd and know how to attack when you are most vulnerable – especially when getting on or off a bus or when you’re in a hurry and your attention is elsewhere. The best rule is simply to carry all valuables under your clothing, or in zipped-up inside pockets, where easy access is denied. Clutch bags and wallets firmly to your front.

Count your change and examine all bills, especially restaurant tabs. Taxi drivers may also try to give you insufficient change, so don’t rush out of the cab when you reach your destination. Take time to make sure you were dealt with fairly and properly – most people you encounter will be honest, but it’s your responsibility too to make sure you are not cheated.

Most beggars simply sit on the steps of a church or on a street with their hand out. Few try to make a nuisance of themselves, but if they do, a firm “no” will give the right message.

Shell games and such attract a crowd in large squares. Although it might be fun to watch, do not get involved – these games are fixed.

Naples is notorious for its hawkers of high-tech goods, such as mobile phones and watches, being touted at incredible prices. No matter how careful the buyer is, the gadget purchased will turn out to be devoid of inner workings once the box is opened. Other peddlers may display jewellery, bags, scarves and such for sale at good prices – but none of it is worth a great deal. It is now a crime to purchase goods from peddlers and if caught buyers could be fined up to €180.

Hairpin turns and narrow roads are hallmarks here, particularly along the Amalfi Coast. The motorways in and around Naples are badly maintained and confusing.

Despite its history of malaria, the plague and cholera outbreaks, the entire area is now as safe as anywhere else in the western world. No inoculations are required or recommended.

Pharmacists in Italy serve as surrogate doctors. They are highly trained and can usually prescribe just the right thing, possibly homeopathic, once your symptoms are clear. Often, drugs that would require a prescription in your home country can be sold without one here. If you need to fill a specific prescription, it’s important to know the actual chemical in question and not just its brand name, as that may be different in Italy.

These are identified by a large red or green cross outside. They keep regular shop hours, but there will always be at least one in the area that is open outside normal hours. Look for the list posted next to the door of any farmacia for the schedule of off-hour openings around town.

There are several national emergency numbers you can call, almost all toll-free, covering everything from crime, accident, fire, car breakdown, rescue and domestic emergencies of any sort.

If you need an English-speaking doctor, contact your country’s consulate in Naples. They have lists of doctors they can refer you to.

Getting around in a wheelchair in this area is a near impossibility without assistance. The larger museums and sights are making some headway at providing easier access, but the progress is slow. Disabled visitors will without a doubt require help from travelling companions at every stage of the journey.

Temperatures in high summer can reach 30° C (86° F) and above, so it is important to wear a high factor sunscreen and a sunhat if walking around sightseeing – particularly children. Swimming in the Mediterranean is generally safe although lifeguards are rare.

There are hospitals in each area that provide 24-hour emergency care.

Pickpockets are not uncommon in crowded parts of Naples, particularly on public transport. Keep valuables tucked away in unreachable places. Losses or thefts should be reported to the nearest police station.

Now that the euro is the coin of many realms, life is much easier for visitors to Europe, although the changeover has resulted in some price inflation, especially in Italy. Euro banknotes have the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Euro coins come in eight denominations: 1 euro, 2 euros, and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents. Visitors from outside the euro zone should check the exchange rates at the time of travel.

If you’re going to opt for this safety precaution, get your cheques directly in euros; that way you won’t have to pay any commission to cash them and in some places you’ll be able to use them as cash. Keep track of the serial numbers.

For ready cash, this is the best option. Bank machines are everywhere and Italian banks charge no transaction fee; you’ll only have your own bank’s fee to pay for using a non-branch machine. If you withdraw the maximum each time (usually $300) the fee will probably be only about 1 per cent. But then be sure to keep your cash safe.

Using your credit card is possible for almost everything in larger places. Only the smaller businesses will find it a problem, because of the 2–4 per cent commission that card companies charge them. Be aware that your own bank may charge you a 2 per cent currency conversion fee for every card purchase you make.

This expensive, time-consuming process should be considered only as a last resort. You can have your bank send money to a bank in Italy, but you must organize things at the Italian end first. Then expect it to take an indeterminate number of days, with substantial charges at both ends of the process.

For letters and postcards it’s better to avoid the queues in post offices and buy francobolli (stamps) at tabbachi (tobacconists). Italian mail is improving but even prioritaria (priority) mail sometimes gets delayed. Mailboxes are red and have two slots – one “per la città” (local) and one for “tutte le altre destinazioni” (everywhere else).

When dialling any number in Italy, you must include the area code and start with a zero. To call outside Italy, dial 00 then the country code, area code and number. Most public phones require a scheda telefonica (phonecard), available from tabbachi .

Many hotels are geared up to allow you to use your laptop for accessing the Internet, and others provide the service at a foyer desk. Otherwise, Internet bars and cafés are common sights in every town and city, even in villages.

In the central kiosks you’ll find a selection of international press. USA Today and the International Herald Tribune are generally available in tourist areas, as well as major British, German and French papers.

Most accommodation options here welcome families. Italians love children and hotels often allow you to include any children up to a certain age – sometimes as high as the teens – at no extra charge, except perhaps a nominal fee for extra beds. The best budget option for families is a self-catering apartment.

Some restaurants in touristed areas have special kid’s meals. Many will also obligingly prepare special foods for infants. There are also fast-food restaurants in the city that cater to kid’s tastes, although it’s the rare child who will not be thrilled with a pizza.

There are shops galore that focus on what kids want, from toys to beach gear to gadgets. Such stuff is cheap enough – and cheaply made – so that you can simply leave it behind when it’s time to go. A good range of fashions for children, toddlers and infants can also be found – some of it expensive.

Central Naples can be a difficult place for children, due to the almost complete lack of parks and other facilities. For wholesome fun, head for the parks – the Villa Comunale or Villa Floridiana are handiest. The castles, too, generally delight little ones, and, of course, Science City and Edenlandia, outside the city, are excellent (see Children’s Attractions).

Few hotels offer this service, so families should plan on non-stop togetherness when contemplating a trip to Naples and the province.

Given the wealth of natural beauty here, much of it now protected in parks and reserves, there are excellent picnicking opportunities. There are also wonderful markets and shops for stocking up on all that you’ll need to put together a memorable repast, with settings and views to rival the best restaurants. Be sure to pick up any rubbish afterwards.

Getting your own apartment can be an excellent option for an extended stay, not only for the money you’ll save but also for the freedom you’ll enjoy in doing the region entirely your own way. Prices can range from basic to high. Another advantage is that you will most probably get to know some locals (see My Home Your Home, Naples).

The best camp sites are good bargains and are located to the west of the city, handy for the archaeological areas of the Campi Flegrei. Be aware that the sea is not at its most inviting along this stretch of coast, but you will find spas and, from the port of Pozzuoli, you can take boats to the islands (see Vulcano Solfatara Camping, Pozzuoli).

All museums in Naples have free days and ridotto (reduced) admissions at all times for persons in certain categories. Another money-saver is to get the Artecard for Naples’ cultural attractions from tourist offices. A cheaper way to get around the coast is by ferry rather than hydrofoil – half the price, but twice the time. (Ferries are also more fun, since you can go out on the deck, which you cannot do on hydrofoils.)

Older buildings, which are often refurbished medieval structures, are usually entirely without facilities for the disabled – there are endless stairways and levels to contend with, sometimes even within a single room. The only good bet is to stay in the newest hotel you can find, where elevators will probably be big enough and bathroom sizes will all comply with EU laws. But double-check the details before booking anything. Even in major public buildings, there are almost always several steps.

Things are improving gradually, as more and more places try to upgrade in order to conform to EU standards. One of the most wheelchair-friendly places is Capri, where cars are few and ramps are everywhere since the main ways of getting luggage and people from one place to another is using electric carts.

Seniors are entitled to discounts on transport fares and some entrance fees, but most offers apply to citizens of EU countries only. Older travellers should be prepared for a lot of walking, often in conditions of high temperature and humidity. In general, plan on taking it easy and limiting the scope of your day’s activities.

There are many educational programmes for seniors, operated by Elderhostel, Interhostel, and the Smithsonian, among others. These are carefully planned package tours or residential programmes that highlight aspects of the area.

Compared to Northern Europe, attitudes here towards women can be quite macho. Still, women generally do not encounter excessive harassment and can travel alone without a problem. Naturally, exercise normal care, especially after dark. Don’t stay around Naples’ central train station if you are on your own.

Your best resource for dealing with Lotharios is a firm “no” tinged with a touch of humour to make it clear you’re not interested. There is a taxi service for single women and the driver will see you to your door.

There are plenty of options for students, including international hostels and discounts of various types if you have your student ID card. The Centro Turistico Student-esco will help with discount travel tickets.

Public toilets are scarce, but bars are everywhere, and they are legally bound to let you use their facilities. You may need to tip an attendant in some places, such as at stations and in the toilets below the main piazza in Capri. Carrying toilet paper with you is always prudent.

Although this staunchly Catholic area is not noted for enlightened attitudes towards gays, there is generally little disapproval. Gay relations have never been outlawed in Italy.

Like all cities, the most convenient places to stay in Naples are in the centre of the city, making them accessible to all the main sights, but this can be quite an expensive option. For cheaper alternatives, the areas around Mergellina or the central station offer plenty of budget places to stay. Naples is also a good base for exploring Pompeii, Vesuvius and the islands (see Island Charmers).

The coast to the south of Naples has long held a reputation for being expensive, with many luxurious hotels having taken advantage of the spectacular landscape. You will get what you pay for, however, as service and facilities are of a very high standard. Cheaper alternatives can be found in smaller towns, such as Praiano, but even Positano and Ravello offer some budget accommodation (see Amalfi Coast Stays).

Again, Sorrento’s reputation as a luxury resort is well founded, although there is no shortage of cheaper hotels – you will just find yourself further from the centre of things and with less breathtaking views. Towns such as Massa Lubrense and Castella-mare di Stabia are better options if you are on a budget – and you will also encounter fewer crowds (see Sorrentine Peninsula Sojourns).

The area’s hotels tend to be at the high end, but there are bargains to be found, even on Capri. But you’ll need to book well in advance for the best deals.

Most hotels and even hostels now have Internet booking, but you should always follow up with a phone call and a fax. Italian hoteliers are famously slippery when it comes to confirmations and you could arrive to find that your reservation has been “lost”. Double check, right up to the time of departure.

In low season this may be possible, but in high season you are asking for trouble, especially in July when Italians themselves are on holiday. Be sure to book. August is quiet in Naples and many hotels have lower tariffs.

Tipping is not the necessity here that it is in some countries, but if you found the service exemplary, leaving something for the staff is never amiss. You can leave a lump sum at the reception at checkout, or something in the room for the maids, or both. In most hotel restaurants, you will find a service charge of 15–20 per cent included on the bill.

Be sure to ask whether tax (IVA) is included in the rate you are quoted, and check to see if there are extra charges for such things as the fridge in your room and the use of the air-conditioning. Items from the minibar will, of course, cost much more than they are worth and telephone calls from your room may be exorbitant.

Most hotels are child-friendly and will give good price breaks on children sharing a room with their parents. Some make no charge and will provide an extra bed too. The best hotels may also provide a babysitter service.