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Despite its bulky towers of volcanic stone, this Renaissance castle also features one of the most graceful archway entrances of the period, delicately carved in the purest white marble.

In effect, Naples’ cathedral is at least three churches in one, including a treasure-laden Palaeo-Christian basilica from the 4th century. The side chapel dedicated to the city’s adored patron saint, San Gennaro, is so large and resplendent that it is really a church in its own right .

This is the repository of ancient art that has been unearthed from Pompeii and other archaeological digs around Vesuvius. These amazing finds evoke a Classical civilization of great refinement and grandeur.

What started out as an unassuming hunting lodge soon grew to become a vast royal palace. It is now a museum housing one of Italy’s finest collections of art.

Begin your tour of Naples’ two oldest main streets at Piazza del Gesù, where you can admire the Guglia dell’Immacolata and the rusticated façade of the church. Further along, enter Santa Chiara to take in the medieval tombs and then around the back to see the famous tiled cloister.

Continuing on, stop for a drink at one of the cafés in Piazza San Domenico, where you will note that the Guglia di San Domenico has mermaids sculpted on its base. Across the street, stop in at the church of Sant’Angelo a Nilo to see its Donatello bas-relief, and at the next corner, look for the ancient statue of the god of the Nile, known familiarly as “The Body of Naples”. Follow the street all the way to Via Duomo, pausing at the shops of all kinds along the way.

Next, visit the culturally amazing Duomo , and then go behind it to see the earliest guglia , topped by a statue of San Gennaro, and Caravaggio’s revolutionary painting The Acts of Mercy in the Pio Monte della Misericordia . Double back along Via dei Tribunali, where you can visit more fascinating churches, including San Gregorio Armeno and Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco .

Finally, head for Piazza Bellini, where you can relax and have a drink or a full meal at one of the friendly cafés.

If there is one museum that manages to capture the true Naples, this is it. Come for the unparalleled views from the gardens, for the masterpieces of the Neapolitan Baroque and the world’s finest collection of nativity figures.

The world’s most famous archaeological site comprises an entire culture caught in a moment of life when Vesuvius erupted nearly 2,000 years ago (see Pompeii).

High above the gorgeous Amalfi Coast this serenely elegant town offers unforgettable views, gorgeous gardens, aristocratic architecture and poetic inspiration.

Some of the best preserved Greek temples in the world stand in timeless splendour on this evocative plain south of Naples.

In this 18th-century villa, archaeological finds include a 4th-century BC Greek original of Artemis on a Deer.

The famed Costiera Amalfitana lives up to the highest expectations in every way. The winding corniche road offers striking panoramas, and some of the towns seem to defy gravity clinging to impossibly steep slopes. Beauty and history are everywhere, tastefully blended with the vita mondana (sophisticated life) of Italian resorts. There’s not much in the way of beaches, but on the whole, this perpendicular paradise never fails to delight.

Known for decades as a playground for the rich and famous this is an astonishingly vertical town in shades of pink and other faded pastels. Only one street snakes its way down and up – the rest are stairs.

This small island has had a fabled history of glamour and decadence yet it still remains essentially a simple place.

Magnetic at any time of day or night, this is Capri’s most frequented spot. Marked by the little domed belltower, it has several cafés with tables outside, surrounded by whitewashed arcades (see Capri).

The island’s primary green spot.

The cuisine here is simple, homemade fare that includes seafood, fish, pasta, chicken and perhaps rabbit, while the wine is local and very creditable. What makes it so romantic is the unsurpassed setting. Not only is it close to nature, being situated almost all the way down to the Arco Naturale, but the terrace tables also enjoy an eye-popping view straight down to the sea, along a precipitous ravine. In addition, the friendly owners do their best to make any meal a memorable event.

Long considered one of the most romantic spots on this evocative coastline, this little fishing village remains a popular destination, with ancient ruins and restaurants with great views. The panoramic vista of Vesuvius from here has been repeatedly celebrated, most nostalgically in that quintessential Neapolitan song “O Sole Mio”.

Continental Europe’s only active volcano has not blown up since its last rumble in 1944, but experts say it could happen at any time. Yet a relatively easy walk to the crater is certainly a memorable experience. Either drive or take a bus or train to Ercolano-Scavi station, from where the 1.5-hour return trail is accompanied by volcanologist guides, except in bad weather (see Pompeii).

The island of Ischia is surmounted by an extinct 788-m (2,585-ft) volcano, Monte Epomeo, and the many hot mineral springs here (some of them radioactive) have drawn cure- and pleasure-seekers to their soothing sources since ancient times. Green and rugged in appearance, the island also benefits from fine, long beaches. Like Capri, Ischia has had its share of famous residents – in the 19th century the Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen wrote Peer Gynt during a stay here, while in the 20th century the English poet W.H. Auden and his homosexual circle scandalized the locals. The island was also the first place in the area to be colonized by the Greeks, in the 8th century BC.

These ancient Greek temples are among the most complete – and most evocative – to have survived into modern times, even taking into account those in Greece itself. Besides the beauty and majesty of these timeless structures, this site has offered up countless other treasures, the remains of the Greco-Roman city that thrived here for some 1,000 years. The wonderful on-site museum is the repository of many unique finds, including the only known Greek paintings to have survived the ages. Taken from a tomb found nearby, the frescoes include a depiction of a joyous banquet of lovers, and a renowned diver – possibly a metaphor for the Greek conception of the afterlife.

To the west of Sorrento, this is one of several fishing villages clustered around little ports. Rarely crowded, the site affords wonderful views across to Capri from the belvedere in Largo Vescovado. At Marina di Lobra there’s a beach and a collection of pretty houses.

Start the tour in the cool of the morning with a visit to Solfatara (opens 8:30am), the vast volcanic lava cap about 1 km (0.5 mile) north of the town. This stark, bizarre site will set the tone for the day’s musings on the ephemeral nature of all things. Next, head back towards town on the Via Vecchia di San Gennaro and take a quick left on Via Domiziana, which follows the ancient Roman road of basalt stones built to link Rome to Puteoli (Pozzuoli). Visit the Santuario di San Gennaro and see the spot where Naples’ patron saint met his martyrdom under Emperor Diocletian.

From here, turn back and go down Via Vecchia di San Gennaro to the Piscina Cardito, a 2nd-century cistern with a vaulted ceiling supported by pillars. Continue on to the great Anfiteatro Flavio and try to imagine what it might have been like, with full scenery and exotic beasts springing out of trapdoors. Next, follow Via Terracciano along to the Terme di Nettuno, huge terraced baths, and on the opposite slope the Ninfeo di Diana, a fountain that may have been part of the baths.

Work your way down towards the ancient port, most of it now underwater, to the Serapeum (market). Walk up onto the promontory, the Rione Terra, to visit the 2,000-year-old Duomo (cathedral).

Finally, enjoy a well-deserved lunch at the Antica Trattoria da Ciuffello (see Antica Trattoria da Ciuffello, Pozzuoli).

The first course may be marinated fish or seafood, a selection of olives and cured meats, bruschetta (toasted bread) with a variety of toppings or prosciutto (ham) with figs or melon, depending on the season. The meal could stop here and you won’t have missed out on the pleasures of the Italian table.