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Amalfi is the largest and most historic town on its eponymous coastline. Between the 9th and 12th centuries the republic was at its height of mercantile power and the architecture still evokes that glory. The Duomo (cathedral) is glorious.

Maiori boasts the coast’s longest beach, while Minori has the archaeological site, the Villa Romana (see Villa Romana, Minori).

The fabled isle has had its detractors – it has been called “nothing more than a rocky cliff with over-priced cafés” – and, in ancient times, the notorious shenanigans of Tiberius gave it an enduring reputation as the ultimate in decadence, as did the party life here in the 1950s. Yet, if you choose to stay awhile, you will discover the real Capri beyond the hype – a world of traditional farm life, scenic hiking terrain and sparkling azure waters for swimming and boating. A place with undeniable allure for those who love the best of what life has to offer.

Very much in ruins, this Roman imperial palace’s main attraction now lies in its stunning position.

This 14th-century monastery features North African-style vaults forming a series of little domes. It now houses the town’s library.

Palisades and grand hotels notwithstanding, there is no getting around the fact that Sorrento can be chaotic. Yet, popular in song and literature, the town has been a resort since the 1700s – Casanova and Goethe are two notable past visitors – and there is still charm to be found in the old streets.

In this 18th-century villa, archaeological finds include a 4th-century BC Greek original of Artemis on a Deer.

This museum boasts finds from all over the peninsula, including pottery and weapons.

The island of Ischia is surmounted by an extinct 788-m (2,585-ft) volcano, Monte Epomeo, and the many hot mineral springs here (some of them radioactive) have drawn cure- and pleasure-seekers to their soothing sources since ancient times. Green and rugged in appearance, the island also benefits from fine, long beaches. Like Capri, Ischia has had its share of famous residents – in the 19th century the Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen wrote Peer Gynt during a stay here, while in the 20th century the English poet W.H. Auden and his homosexual circle scandalized the locals. The island was also the first place in the area to be colonized by the Greeks, in the 8th century BC.

Some of the best ceramics on the island. Designs tend to evoke the natural hues of the setting – azure, gold, green – usually with flowers and vines or other florid vegetation. Anything can be designed to your specifications and you can watch the artists at work.

Cobblers jollier than these would be hard to find. Stop by to pick out designs you like and within a few hours – unless you choose something extra fancy – you’ll have your very own hand-tooled, made-to-measure sandals.

One of the top souvenirs from the area is limoncello , the signature lemon liqueur. This is a good place to see it being made, after which you’ll know why it packs such a punch – it’s basically pure alcohol with flavouring.

Located in what is probably the best people-watching piazza in town, this elegant little bar has the requisite cluster of outdoor tables from which to ogle the crowds. After 8pm, most of the area is closed to traffic.

Excellent, wood-fired pizza is served here for both lunch and dinner. The heat of traditional wood ovens flash-bakes the dough, preventing the toppings from becoming soggy.

The grandest experience Sorrento has to offer, in the glittering frescoed dining room of this superlative hotel. Silver, china, crystal and fine linen complement the service you receive. Former diners have included Goethe, Byron, Wagner, Princess Margaret and Pavarotti.

A family-run, unpretentious place serving good, traditional food. Tables on the terrace overlook the sea.

To complement your wood-fired pizza here you are automatically served a basket of garlic bread.

One of the best restaurants in town, set right on the sea. Original dishes include seafood ravioli with arugula (rocket) sauce.

One of the island’s best bars, with excellent gelato (ice cream) and dolci (desserts). It’s surrounded by dense greenery in the middle of a traffic circle in this laid-back port.

Named after the Italian monikers for old-time slapstick comedians Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy, who have always had a fervent following in this country. It’s centrally located and features great gelato , made on the premises.

The clientele here are definitely upper-crust – tending towards yachting types and Neapolitan high-rollers. Great granita al limone (lemon iced sorbet), among other sweet treats.

Positioned to the right of the beach, with dining on a porticoed balcony. Seafood is the thing to go for.

A major tourist magnet, but there’s no denying that the treats they turn out here are delicious: pastries, cakes, fresh fruit sorbets and the like. The patio, with fragrant lemon trees, is captivating.

A beautiful spot, set amid citrus trees, serves traditional home-cooking using fresh ingredients from the garden.

A favourite among both local youth and visitors, this little bar doubles as a club, sandwich shop and pizzeria , open until late. Don’t overlook the excellent desserts.

Capri Town’s main square may be small but it’s big on la vita mondana (sophisticated lifestyle). The little bars, with their cluster of outdoor tables, are a magnet for daytrippers and locals alike, although the latter turn up after dark after the former have moved on.

This lively, welcoming place is top of most locals’ list, for both quality and price. The cooking features seafood, antipasti and pizzas.

Offering spacious indoor seating as well as a lush garden with a fountain and a grotto, this restaurant has exquisite focaccia and pizza and an excellent house red from Calabria.

This beautifully decorated club attracts a young, energetic crowd.

The weeknight attraction at this club, evocatively set inside a cavern, is the soulful sounds of the resident pianist Claudio Fiori. At weekends the place turns into a nightclub equipped with high-energy house and techno. Cover charge.

Another hot spot and local celebrity hangout. The DJ spins cool house and techno dance music, but don’t get here before 2am. Dressy club attire is de rigueur .

Irish pubs have been popular in Italy for decades, and this one has excellent food, beers on tap, and great music, including live performers at times.

Set up in the valley, this disco holds up to 200 party-goers. Good food available too.

This disco-bar is a favourite with locals. Music includes hiphop, funk and house. Live music is also sometimes on offer, with cabaret on Saturday nights.