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Begin your tour of Naples’ two oldest main streets at Piazza del Gesù, where you can admire the Guglia dell’Immacolata and the rusticated façade of the church. Further along, enter Santa Chiara to take in the medieval tombs and then around the back to see the famous tiled cloister.

Continuing on, stop for a drink at one of the cafés in Piazza San Domenico, where you will note that the Guglia di San Domenico has mermaids sculpted on its base. Across the street, stop in at the church of Sant’Angelo a Nilo to see its Donatello bas-relief, and at the next corner, look for the ancient statue of the god of the Nile, known familiarly as “The Body of Naples”. Follow the street all the way to Via Duomo, pausing at the shops of all kinds along the way.

Next, visit the culturally amazing Duomo , and then go behind it to see the earliest guglia , topped by a statue of San Gennaro, and Caravaggio’s revolutionary painting The Acts of Mercy in the Pio Monte della Misericordia . Double back along Via dei Tribunali, where you can visit more fascinating churches, including San Gregorio Armeno and Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco .

Finally, head for Piazza Bellini, where you can relax and have a drink or a full meal at one of the friendly cafés.

You never know quite what you’ll find in the way of old prints and period objects here – a browse might turn up anything from an 18th-century engraving to an Art Deco-style poster from the 1930s.

One of Old Naples’ finest antiques shops. Specialities are furniture and ceramics from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Nativity figures are also on offer.

This café is reputed to have the best espresso in town, but if you don’t want it sweetened (alla napoletana ) then ask for a caffè amaro (bitter coffee). A hot-weather winner is the frappe di caffè (iced whipped coffee). You can also stock up on some wonderful coffee blends to take home.

This trattoria specializes in seafood pasta and grilled catch of the day.

The perfect wine bar to sample an extensive array of Campanian wines, as well as some fine national selections.

This large jazz club features local talent every evening. In summer the management often organizes jazz cruises around the bay.

Not just a great café with an appealing atmosphere, but a purveyor of delicious Arabic goodies and full meals.

This establishment turns out full Middle Eastern meals. The kebabs are perfectly grilled and the honeyed desserts superb.

Dating back to 1886, this place knows all about quality. Enjoy an espresso and a cornetto (croissant) at one of the outside tables – or make like a local and stand at the bar.