DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast : Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte

The ancient heart of the city is celebrated for its striking juxta-position of chaos and consummate artistry, but most of all for the sheer, boundless energy of the Neapolitan spirit. In many ways, it is an atavistic realm, ruled by its past, including innumerable disasters, but in recent decades a new awareness of its abiding glories has dawned and Old Naples is ready to open anew to the world. Its narrow streets are much safer and cleaner than before and its erstwhile dilapidated, shut-away treasures are now restored and far better organized, without losing any of the uniquely vibrant feeling. Spaccanapoli is the colloquial name for the long, narrow street that runs from Via Duomo to Via Monteoliveto and is the remnant of an ancient Greco-Roman thoroughfare.

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Gesù Nuovo

The wall of this church dates back to a 15th-century fortified palace. Inside are works of art from the 16th to 19th centuries.
Gran Caffè Aragonese

This café dominates the scene on this beautiful and crowded piazza. It offers a good range of local desserts and savoury snacks, and excellent Neapolitan-style coffee.
I Re di Napoli

One of a chain of three, the choice of pizzas here is wider than in the more stalwart places. Try the one with mini mozzarella balls.
Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente

Another pizzeria on this busy street, which gained its moment of fame when then US President Bill Clinton stopped by for a snack.
Internetbar

This trendy establishment offers Internet facilities, drinks and snacks, and an art gallery.
Intra Moenia

The mainstay of Piazza Bellini and a good place to hang out and enjoy a drink. In warm weather it’s also a lively gay venue in the evenings.
Intra Moenia

This large bar-café-bookshop-publisher is a magnet on this attractive piazza. It’s a wonderful place to have a drink and soak up the intellectual ambience.
Kinky Bar

This reggae club is not at all kinky – in fact, decidedly mainstream for this city, which seems to love the Caribbean beat. In summer the operation moves outdoors to local beaches.
Kukuwaya

The tiny dance floor here gets plenty of action to the sounds of funk, reggae or whatever gets people going. Closing time is flexible, tending towards very late.
La Cantina del Sole

Noted for recipes that hark back as far as the 1600s, choices are impressive.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20–30
- €30–40
- €40–50
- over €50