DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast : Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte

The ancient heart of the city is celebrated for its striking juxta-position of chaos and consummate artistry, but most of all for the sheer, boundless energy of the Neapolitan spirit. In many ways, it is an atavistic realm, ruled by its past, including innumerable disasters, but in recent decades a new awareness of its abiding glories has dawned and Old Naples is ready to open anew to the world. Its narrow streets are much safer and cleaner than before and its erstwhile dilapidated, shut-away treasures are now restored and far better organized, without losing any of the uniquely vibrant feeling. Spaccanapoli is the colloquial name for the long, narrow street that runs from Via Duomo to Via Monteoliveto and is the remnant of an ancient Greco-Roman thoroughfare.

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La Tapas Bar

This relaxed bar occupies the choicest spot on this inviting little piazza. The musical selections tend towards Latin sounds. Despite the name, however, they serve no tapas .
La Trianon da Ciro

Equally traditional as “da Michele” – and just across the street – this eatery is more up-market, with a larger choice. The decor is appealing, recalling the city’s belle époque heyday.
La Vecchia Cantina

Taking full advantage of its location next to the market, this place serves seriously fresh fish at delightful prices.
Lombardi

A restaurant and a pizzeria that is a bit off the beaten track, so rarely crowded. The antipasto buffet is wonderful, featuring seasonal delicacies.
Lombardi a Santa Chiara

A treat from the beginning of the meal to the end – good pizza, wine and fine dolci (desserts).
Lontano da Dove

Come here for an old-fashioned passion for literature – discussions about theatre, art or politics, poetry readings, and, at weekends, live jazz.
L’Antica Pizzeria “da Michele”

The most traditional of Naples’ pizzerie , the menu here is limited to only two classic varieties, margherita and marinara . Still, the taste is sublime – and the wait often considerable. Take a number at the door before queueing.
L’Arte del Pulcinella

This little shop is crammed full of Pulcinella figures (see Pulcinella) in all shapes and sizes, from the sweetly innocent to the bawdy. All in keeping with the character’s outlandish personality.
Mellinoi

An up-market outlet for stylish clothing, including a good range of designer labels from Italy, France and Spain.
Mimì alla Ferrovia

Near the train station, Mimì specializes in fish and seafood, but they also have great pasta e ceci (soup with chickpeas).

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20–30
- €30–40
- €40–50
- over €50