DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast : Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte

The ancient heart of the city is celebrated for its striking juxta-position of chaos and consummate artistry, but most of all for the sheer, boundless energy of the Neapolitan spirit. In many ways, it is an atavistic realm, ruled by its past, including innumerable disasters, but in recent decades a new awareness of its abiding glories has dawned and Old Naples is ready to open anew to the world. Its narrow streets are much safer and cleaner than before and its erstwhile dilapidated, shut-away treasures are now restored and far better organized, without losing any of the uniquely vibrant feeling. Spaccanapoli is the colloquial name for the long, narrow street that runs from Via Duomo to Via Monteoliveto and is the remnant of an ancient Greco-Roman thoroughfare.

Page
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

Museo Archeologico

One of the world’s most important museums of ancient art houses some of the most famous statues from the Greco-Roman past, such as the Callipygean Venus that set standards of physical beauty that have endured through the ages. Other monumental marble works include the Farnese Hercules, but the collections also feature bronzes, mosaics, frescoes, carved semiprecious stone, glassware, Greek vases, Egyptian artifacts, and much more (see Museo Archeologico Nazionale).
Napul’é

This little bottega (workshop) provides the opportunity to see craftsmen at work, refining the lifelike details of wonderful nativity figures. Most of them are replicas of famous originals, but they will also create personalized versions to order.
Notting Hill

A long, narrow space with local rock groups, as well as touring Italian and international bands. On Saturdays it becomes “Notting Hill Gallery”, a semi-gay club night.
Orto Botanico

Created in 1807, this botanical garden remains one of Italy’s most important, both in size and in its collections. Given Naples’ climate it has been possible to cultivate examples of nearly all of the world’s plants and flowers here. Historic structures include the Neo-Classical Serra Temperata, built in 1807 by the same architect who designed the double stairway entrance to the grounds.
Osmis

This little shop carries a charming line of locally and internationally crafted jewellery, masks, lamps, mirrors and candles.
Palazzo dello Spagnolo

Dating from 1728, this palace offers a fine example of a well-known Neapolitan architectural element, the so-called staircase “ad ali di falco” (with falcon wings). Separating two courtyards, the external stairway consists of double flights of steps with tiers of archways, a theatrical feature that became the trademark of its designer, Ferdinando Sanfelice. The palace was owned by a Spanish nobleman, hence the nickname.
Piazza Bellini

This square is one of the most appealing places in Naples, lined with inviting cafés, bookshops and the façades of palaces. Of particular note is the monastery of Sant’Antonio a Port’Alba, incorporating 15th-century Palazzo Conca and adorned with busts of the Spanish royal family. At the centre of the piazza, in addition to a statue of the eponymous composer, is an archaeological excavation, revealing 5th-century BC Greek walls of large tufa blocks .
Pizzeria Fortuna

Little more than a counter with a few plastic tables in front, this little place turns out delicious pizzette and other goodies in seconds.
Pizzeria Sorbillo

The main restaurant dates from 1935, but there is also a stand-up branch next door where you can watch pizza makers twirl the dough, dash on the topping and pop it into the brick oven.
Pizzeria Vesi

This place specializes in “pizza DOC” – an aromatic combination of mozzarella balls, pomodorini (cherry tomatoes) and basil.

Jump to top

Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20–30
- €30–40
- €40–50
- over €50