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The railings here are adorned with bronze skulls, evoking the tradition of care for the dead.

This 13th-century church contains Cavallini frescoes.

The original church on this site is believed to have been built in the 5th century over a Roman temple to Mercury. It was rebuilt in the 17th century, with decoration added over the next 100 years. As such it provides a complete treasury of 17th- and 18th-century art, not just by Neapolitan artists but by some the greatest masters of the day. Most famous is the fresco cycle by Lanfranco, with a marvellous trompe-l’oeil architectural setting by Codazzi. Other highlights are the altar designed by Borromini and paintings by Giordano in the transept.

Noted all over Naples for its wonderful traditional pastries, it’s a real treat to sample the wares while checking out this piazza. Don’t arrive too late or you may find they’ve sold out.

The table is communal, waiters are in period costume, and the entertainment and food are based on historic eras. Book ahead.

An excellent, tiny jazz bar, with first-rate drinks and snacks. It’s also a sometimes gallery for Naples’ new crop of photographers and artists.

In an appealing little piazza just off Spaccanapoli this funky music shop is good if you’re looking for CDs of local music. The proprietor will help you find everything from traditional tarantella music to the latest Neapolitan rockers.

Naples’ only specialized vegetarian restaurant. The menu might include black-eyed peas with greens or risotto with artichokes.

The “Velvet” is the top club in the old quarter for dancing, since it stays open until 6am at weekends. Music varies from techno to 1980s to rock, and even to live music from time to time.