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Like all cities, the most convenient places to stay in Naples are in the centre of the city, making them accessible to all the main sights, but this can be quite an expensive option. For cheaper alternatives, the areas around Mergellina or the central station offer plenty of budget places to stay. Naples is also a good base for exploring Pompeii, Vesuvius and the islands (see Island Charmers).

The coast to the south of Naples has long held a reputation for being expensive, with many luxurious hotels having taken advantage of the spectacular landscape. You will get what you pay for, however, as service and facilities are of a very high standard. Cheaper alternatives can be found in smaller towns, such as Praiano, but even Positano and Ravello offer some budget accommodation (see Amalfi Coast Stays).

Again, Sorrento’s reputation as a luxury resort is well founded, although there is no shortage of cheaper hotels – you will just find yourself further from the centre of things and with less breathtaking views. Towns such as Massa Lubrense and Castella-mare di Stabia are better options if you are on a budget – and you will also encounter fewer crowds (see Sorrentine Peninsula Sojourns).

The area’s hotels tend to be at the high end, but there are bargains to be found, even on Capri. But you’ll need to book well in advance for the best deals.

Most hotels and even hostels now have Internet booking, but you should always follow up with a phone call and a fax. Italian hoteliers are famously slippery when it comes to confirmations and you could arrive to find that your reservation has been “lost”. Double check, right up to the time of departure.

In low season this may be possible, but in high season you are asking for trouble, especially in July when Italians themselves are on holiday. Be sure to book. August is quiet in Naples and many hotels have lower tariffs.

Tipping is not the necessity here that it is in some countries, but if you found the service exemplary, leaving something for the staff is never amiss. You can leave a lump sum at the reception at checkout, or something in the room for the maids, or both. In most hotel restaurants, you will find a service charge of 15–20 per cent included on the bill.

Be sure to ask whether tax (IVA) is included in the rate you are quoted, and check to see if there are extra charges for such things as the fridge in your room and the use of the air-conditioning. Items from the minibar will, of course, cost much more than they are worth and telephone calls from your room may be exorbitant.

Most hotels are child-friendly and will give good price breaks on children sharing a room with their parents. Some make no charge and will provide an extra bed too. The best hotels may also provide a babysitter service.

You don’t have to go very far from the tourist areas to find untouched corners where life hasn’t changed in centuries. Here you’ll find ancient traditions very much alive, as well as breathtaking scenery and fine cuisine, especially in the towns above the Amalfi Coast.