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Perhaps it’s the water, or the quality of the flour or yeast used, but Neapolitan pizza is inimitable. It’s spongy, chewy, succulent and melts in your mouth, while the toppings are flavourful and aromatic. Purists insist that it was invented here centuries ago and that the only true pizza is the simplest, the margherita – tomato, basil and mozzarella cheese, with a sprinkling of olive oil.

The first course may be marinated fish or seafood, a selection of olives and cured meats, bruschetta (toasted bread) with a variety of toppings or prosciutto (ham) with figs or melon, depending on the season. The meal could stop here and you won’t have missed out on the pleasures of the Italian table.

This course usually means pasta or rice, but minestre and zuppe (soups) also appear in this category. Great primi to look for are spaghetti alle vongole veraci (with clams), pasta e fagioli (with beans), fettucine alla puttanesca (egg noodles with tomato, capers, black olives and red pepper) and risotto alla pescatora (rice with seafood).

Scamorza (grilled smoked mozzarella) is always included in this part of the menu, as are omelettes. Meat dishes include vitello (veal), polpette (meatballs), carne alla pizzaiola (with tomato and basil sauce), involtini (beef or ham rolls), agnello (lamb) or coniglio alla cacciatora (rabbit stew).

This category is, of course, the area’s strong point. Calamari (squid) are a favourite, as are cozze (mussels) in a variety of delicious presentations. Seppie (cuttlefish) and polipo (octopus) are popular, too, stewed, fried or steamed. Pesce all’acqua pazza (fish in “crazy water”) is a treat – fresh fish stewed in water with tomatoes, garlic and chillies.

The fertility of the land around Naples is never more evident that when you taste the produce it brings forth. For contorni (side dishes), peppers, artichokes, aubergine (eggplant), capers, mushrooms and green beans are offered steamed or sautéed. Expect the freshness of each vegetable to have been fully retained, cooked with just a touch of garlic, tomato or lemon, and some herbs.

Besides the host of fresh leaves and cherry tomatoes that end up in the wonderful salads (insalata ) here, there are two famous cold dishes from the area. The insalata caprese is the essence of simplicity, relying on quality mozzarella di bufala , ripe tomatoes and aromatic basil. Caponata may include marinated aubergine (eggplant), artichoke hearts and capers, with bread chunks to soak up the flavours.

Mozzarella di bufala is the signature cheese from the area. The milk of the buffalo has a tangy quality and the cheese develops a unique smoothness. The smoked version is provola .

Many Neapolitan desserts are inspired by their Sicilian cousins, notably delizie , a cream-filled cake, and pannacotta (cooked cream), perhaps topped with fresh fruit. In season, the melon, figs and wild strawberries are unforgettable.

A sfogliatella (pastry filled with ricotta cheese) is a sublime way to start the day, accompanied by a cup of coffee. Other treats include babà (cake soaked in rum and honey) and zeppole (pastry filled with custard and topped with wild cherries).