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As lovely as the Bay of Naples is, parts of it are quite polluted and you should heed warning signs. If an area is posted “vietato” it is probably not safe to swim or fish there. Air pollution can also be a problem in hot, dry seasons in Naples proper, so anyone who suffers from respiratory conditions should bring along suitable medication. The tap water is usually safe to drink but, in general, bottled water will taste better.

In hot weather always choose reputable-looking bars and restaurants if you plan on having anything to eat that involves mayonnaise or fish of any kind. Food-poisoning is not a common problem here, but eating things that have gone off can spoil your holiday faster than almost any other factor.

When visiting churches remember to dress respectfully and to conduct yourself in a quiet manner that will not offend any worshippers who may be present. This is extremely important during services of any kind – weddings and masses, for example – when many churches discourage sightseers altogether.

Wherever there are crowds, there are pick-pockets. This includes trains, subways, buses, hydrofoils, streets and museums. Such petty thieves are very shrewd and know how to attack when you are most vulnerable – especially when getting on or off a bus or when you’re in a hurry and your attention is elsewhere. The best rule is simply to carry all valuables under your clothing, or in zipped-up inside pockets, where easy access is denied. Clutch bags and wallets firmly to your front.

Count your change and examine all bills, especially restaurant tabs. Taxi drivers may also try to give you insufficient change, so don’t rush out of the cab when you reach your destination. Take time to make sure you were dealt with fairly and properly – most people you encounter will be honest, but it’s your responsibility too to make sure you are not cheated.

Most beggars simply sit on the steps of a church or on a street with their hand out. Few try to make a nuisance of themselves, but if they do, a firm “no” will give the right message.

Shell games and such attract a crowd in large squares. Although it might be fun to watch, do not get involved – these games are fixed.

Naples is notorious for its hawkers of high-tech goods, such as mobile phones and watches, being touted at incredible prices. No matter how careful the buyer is, the gadget purchased will turn out to be devoid of inner workings once the box is opened. Other peddlers may display jewellery, bags, scarves and such for sale at good prices – but none of it is worth a great deal. It is now a crime to purchase goods from peddlers and if caught buyers could be fined up to €180.

Hairpin turns and narrow roads are hallmarks here, particularly along the Amalfi Coast. The motorways in and around Naples are badly maintained and confusing.

The secret to avoiding problems is the art of seeming to know what you’re doing and where you’re going. Don’t carry cameras, bags and other paraphernalia all at once, and don’t look too befuddled by chaos you may encounter. And avoid shadowy backstreets.