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The colloquial name of this ancient street means “Splits Naples”, which is exactly what it does, cutting the oldest part of the city right down the middle. Beginning at the western end in Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, a straight line takes you past some of the city’s finest monuments. In addition, there are shops, bars, cafés and pizzerias (see Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte).

In Roman times this street, now known as Via dei Tribunali, was the main east-west artery of the city. It constitutes the heart of the old quarter and is replete with unmissable sights, as well as intriguing shops and bars and cafés to while away the hours.

For regal edifices, including castles and palaces and elegant cafés and shops, this is a choice part of town and recently renovated to be more pedestrian-friendly. A good place to start is at the Fontana di Nettuno on Via Medina (see Fontana di Nettuna, Naples) and then head down towards the sea and west. This arc will take in many highlights, including Castel Nuovo, Teatro San Carlo and Galleria Umberto I.

Beginning at the public gardens next to the Palazzo Reale, take the seaside road around the Santa Lucia quarter and past some of Naples’ loveliest areas, including the island of Castel dell’Ovo and the green splendour of the Villa Comunale.

From the royal quarter Via Toledo begins elegantly, but soon the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters) come up along the western flank – a warren of narrow, dark streets that don’t seem to have changed in centuries. However, continuing on you’ll pass appealing Piazza Dante and finally come to the Museo Archeologico.

A walk along the rim of this vast crater is an experience of a lifetime. Some 20,000 visitors a year trek to the top to peer down into the steaming depths 200 m (700 ft) below. The hike up takes 45 minutes and it’s at its best in late spring, when flowers and songbirds are most vibrant. It is cold on the top, so go prepared.

If you take the funivia (cablecar) from Castellammare di Stabia up to Monte Faito there are startling views from the top, as well as the beginning of numerous nature trails, some of which eventually lead as far as Positano.

Excellent hiking points can be reached above Positano and between Ravello and AmalfiAtrani. Most of these paths are erstwhile goat trails, while some have been built up as stone stairways, but all of them offer incomparable views.

Once you get away from the smart shops and hotels, this island is all about nature walks: up to Villa Jovis, down to the Arco Naturale, through the forest to the Blue Grotto – the possibilities are numerous.

The walks and hikes on this island are plentiful. A memorable trek is up Monte Epomeo from Forio, through Fontana, taking about 40 minutes.