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This port town has been known since ancient times for its thermal springs – the many different waters are each thought to be therapeutic in specific ways. As with its neighbours, its beauty has been compromised by poverty and developers in recent decades, but it is not without charm, particularly along the central promenade. Nearby, the ruins of aristocratic villas, Arianna and San Marco, offer glimpses into wealthy lifestyles of 2,000 years ago (see Herculaneum, Oplontis & Stabiae).

This town, largely a resort in ancient times located right on the sea, was also buried alive by by mud and lava from Vesuvius. The resulting preservation is, if anything, even better, bringing down to us wooden structures and other more perishable materials. However the excavations began in the 18th century when the science of archaeology had yet to be developed, so diggers were not very careful, being mostly on a royal treasure hunt for statuary, mosaics and fresco paintings (see Herculaneum, Oplontis & Stabiae).

Certainly no archaeological find is more important than that of ancient Pompeii, where a culture was captured forever by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79. Not only can we see the streets, buildings, furnishings, art, tools, jewellery, and even the food and drink of the people who lived here, but plaster casts reveal the people themselves. From the ruling class down to slaves, we can see their last moments during those terrible few hours that doomed the city.

The Vesuvian Villas were begun by King Charles III and Queen Maria in the 18th century. His Reggia (palace), designed by Antonio Medrano, was the first and greatest of the villas, the rest of which were built by other members of the Bourbon court. For the most part the villas are now dilapidated, but there are plans to save as many as possible.

Few places present such a stark contrast to the visitor as this one. The contemporary squalor of uncontrolled urban blight hides, within its depressed grime, imperial splendours of the ancient world. The town is infamous these days for its crime and poverty, yet just two blocks from the train station lie the beautifully preserved ruins of one of the most sumptuous villas to have been preserved by Vesuvius’s eruption (see Herculaneum, Oplontis & Stabiae).

This town has been home to coral artisans and cameo manufacturers for centuries, a craft that continues to draw admirers today. Yet its rough streets are among the area’s worst for violent crime and, to add to the tension, it lies in the direct line of fire from Vesuvius, last suffering destruction in 1794.

This stupendous villa was designed by the Vanvittelli brothers between 1760–75. It features a circular portico, where concerts are now held, and enjoys a lovely panorama of the bay. Some of the rooms have been restored to their original decor, while others are used for special exhibitions.

Villa Favorita was boarded up at least 100 years ago – with Italian Unification the noble homes became an obsolete symbol of decadence. However the park and the annexe are open to visitors, the former punctuated with pavilions.

Set further back from the sea, this house was built for the baronial Petti family. It has now been fully restored, with Rococo decorations, frescoes and marble busts.