The area between Morningside Park and the Hudson River, from 110th–125th streets, is dominated by Columbia University and two important churches. Further west and extending north is Harlem, America’s best-known African-American community. In the 1880s, when rail connected the neighborhood to Midtown, the large townhouses were occupied by Irish, Italian, and Jewish families, but by the 1920s black families predominated. The Harlem Renaissance, when nightclubs with black entertainers were frequented by whites, ended with the Depression. Nevertheless, recent development is reviving the area, causing some to declare a second Renaissance.
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Morning
Begin late Sunday morning and take the No. 2 or No. 3 subway uptown to 135th Street and Lenox Avenue. Walk to 138th Street and turn west to hear the fabulous choir at the Abyssinian Baptist Church.
Continue west along 138th Street to see the fine 1890s homes of the St. Nicholas Historic District and stop on 8th Avenue to enjoy a gospel brunch at Londel’s Supper Club .
Afternoon
Retrace your steps to Lenox Avenue and head downtown to 125th Street to peruse the shops. Turn west for the famous Apollo Theater and excellent displays of African- American art at the Studio Museum in Harlem. Afterwards, stop for coffee at the Starbucks on Lenox Avenue at 125th Street.
Take the M60 bus to West 120th Street and Broadway. Walk down to Riverside Church for fine views over the Hudson River from the bell tower. Across the street is the monument honoring the 18th U.S. president, Ulysses S. Grant. At 116th Street, head east two blocks to Broadway and the entrance to Columbia University . One block east on Amsterdam Avenue is the Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine with its immense interior. End the day with some good southern cooking at Miss Mamie’s (see Miss Maude’s/Miss Mamie’s) and return to Broadway for the No. 1 or No. 9 subway back downtown.
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Home to jazz series, as well as ballet, opera, and the Harlem Film Festival.
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One of the oldest and most influential African-American churches in the U.S. was organized in 1808 by a group protesting segregation within the Baptist church. The congregation became politically active under such leaders as congressman Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. Today the church is widely attended on Sundays by many who come to hear the wonderful gospel choir.
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A cheerful café with an updated slant on Southern classics. Waffles are a house specialty.
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This theater is Harlem’s famous showcase, where Ella Fitzgerald and James Brown launched their careers.
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Cajun is a specialty of Steve Manning, who spent 10 years in New Orleans perfecting crawfish étouffé .
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The mother church of the Episcopal Diocese of New York, begun in 1892 and still incomplete, is the largest cathedral in the world. Over 600 feet (180m) long and 146 feet (45m) wide, the church is a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Its most impressive features include the west entrance, the rose window, bay altars, and the Peace Fountain on the south lawn. The medieval stone carving techniques used on the building are taught in workshops for disadvantaged youths.
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Famous fried chicken, ribs, and collard greens can’t be beat at this tiny no-frills and very popular spot.
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One of America’s oldest universities, noted for its law, medicine, and journalism schools, Columbia was founded in 1754 as King’s College. It moved in 1897 to its present campus, designed by Charles McKim with lawns and plazas on a serene terrace set apart from the street. Notable buildings include McKim’s 1898 Low Library, and St. Paul’s Chapel with three windows by La Farge.
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Take your pick of Southern classics at this popular spot; don’t miss the Sunday gospel brunch.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable charges including tax.
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