DK Travel : Normandy

Normandy brings a dozen different images to mind: William the Conqueror, the D-Day landings, Mont-St-Michel; the bleak landscape of the Cotentin coast, the sparkling summertime playground of the Côte Fleurie; sumptuous châteaux, historic abbeys, famous gardens; the orchards of the Auge, the picture-postcard scenery of the Suisse Normande; Monet’s home at Giverny, the Cabourg immortalized by Proust – or perhaps it’s cider, calvados and camembert. Whatever your list, it will barely scratch the surface of this rich and rewarding region.

A Day in Cotentin

Morning

Leave Cherbourg on the D901 toward St-Pierre-Église. After 15 km (9 miles), turn onto the D355 to pretty Le Vast in the heart of the lovely Val de Saire. Be sure to buy a delicious brioche du Vast from Olivier Thebault, 12 les Moulins. Follow the river on the D25 to Valcanville, then on the D125 to La Pernelle, climbing the steep granite hill to the church and, above, a magnificent panorama of the coast.

In St-Vaast-la-Hougue (see St-Vaast-la-Hougue and Île de Tatihou), book a table for lunch (don’t forget to try some St-Vaast oysters) at France et des Fuchsias (see France et des Fuchsias, St-Vaast-la-Hougue), then stock up on food and wine at the family-run emporium Gosselin, trading since 1889. If there’s time, take a trip to Île de Tatihou , just offshore.

Afternoon

From St-Vaast, it’s a quick drive along the D14 to Quineville, then the coastal D421 to Utah Beach to contemplate the events of June 1944 (see D-Day Beaches). After a bracing walk along the beach and dunes, head inland to Ste-Mère-Eglise and its famous church (see Utah Beach and Ste-Mère-Eglise), perhaps pausing for refreshment at Café de la Libération in rue Général-de-Gaulle.

From Ste-Mère-Église, drive into the watery heart of the Cotentin marshlands (see Parc Régional des Marais du Cotentin), ending the day on the banks of the Douve at Les Moitiers-en-Bauptois at the delightful Auberge de l’Ouve (open Apr–Sep; 02 33 21 16 26), where local eels are the speciality.
A Day in the Country and Other Stories (Guy de Maupassant)

Twenty-eight of Maupassant’s brilliant short stories.
A Drive Along the Risle

Morning

Starting in Pont-Audemer , follow the sign-posted trail around the town’s highlights. If it’s Friday (market day), rue de la République will be lined with tempting food stalls.

Take the D130 for the lovely 24 km (15 mile) drive along the Risle and through the Fôret de Montfort to Le Bec-Hellouin . Wander in the abbey grounds and climb the Tour St-Nicolas for a fine view. The calm atmosphere of the village makes a perfect setting for lunch, especially at the picturesque Auberge de l’Abbaye (see Auberge de l’Abbaye, Le Bec-Hellouin). If you have a picnic, head back to Pont-Authou just north of Le Bec-Hellouin, and follow signs Canoe-Kayak-La Risle over a footbridge to a tranquil aire de pique-nique on an island in the river.

Afternoon

Leave Le Bec-Hellouin on the scenic D39 to St-Martin-du-Parc and Le Buhot, then turn left on the D26 to Harcourt, with its stern medieval fortress-château and the oldest arboretum in France (see Le Domaine d’Harcourt). Leaving by the D137, reconnect with the Risle at Brionne . There’s plenty to do here, including canoeing (see Canoeing on the Risle). The square keep (or donjon) on its hill is a fine sight against the setting sun; from it, there is a panoramic view over the Risle Valley. In town, there’s a choice of cafés and restaurants for a relaxing evening drink or a meal. Best is the 18th-century Auberge du Vieux Donjon (rue Soie).
A Drive through the Val de Seine

Morning

Take the D982 from Rouen to St-Martin-deBoscherville to visit the lovely Romanesque Abbaye St-Georges de Boscherville . Walk around the gardens and enjoy the views. After a browse in the abbey shop, revive yourself at one of the village bars.

Cotinue on the D982 until you reach the D143 turn-off for the bewitching, ruined Abbaye de Jumièges . This is a place for calm contemplation, so don’t rush your visit. Afterwards, make your way to the picturesque Seine-side inn Auberge du Bac (2 rue Alphonse Callais) for lunch.

Afternoon

Retrace your steps to the D982 and head on to the Abbaye de St-Wandrille . Finish with a visit to the shop, filled with goods produced by the monks.

Cross the elegant Pont de Brotonne into the Forêt de Brotonne via the D40, and spend the rest of the afternoon exploring this tranquil forest at the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional des Boucles de la Seine Normande . Visit the Maison du Parc in Notre-Dame-de-Bliquetuit, then stop for tea at the simple Chez Agnès. Leave the forest on the D913, take the little roads via Barneville and Mauny to La Bouille, where the bac (ferryboat) will ferry you across the river to Sahurs. From here, turn right and follow signs for Rouen.
A La Recherche du Temps Perdu, Cabourg

Ghislaine and Sylvie Soulas sell clothes, knitwear, embroidery, linens, gifts and traditional games in this enchanting boutique.
A Normandy Tapestry (Alan Biggins)

Biggins’ move to France with his family took him behind the scenes of French rural life.
A Woman’s Story (Annie Ernaux)

A lovely tribute to the author’s mother, who lived much of her life in Yvetot.
Abbaye de Cérisy-la-Fôret

Though much of the vast nave is missing, this Benedictine abbey is still a powerful reminder of the importance of monasteries in medieval times.
Abbaye de Hambye

Tucked beneath a wooded escarpment by the River Sienne, Hambye’s roofless remains have an immediately calming effect on visitors. The monastic buildings have been restored, and host exhibitions and concerts.
Abbaye de Jumièges

The breathtakingly lovely ruins of a 7th-century abbey, which once housed a community of 900 monks.