Normandy brings a dozen different images to mind: William the Conqueror, the D-Day landings, Mont-St-Michel; the bleak landscape of the Cotentin coast, the sparkling summertime playground of the Côte Fleurie; sumptuous châteaux, historic abbeys, famous gardens; the orchards of the Auge, the picture-postcard scenery of the Suisse Normande; Monet’s home at Giverny, the Cabourg immortalized by Proust – or perhaps it’s cider, calvados and camembert. Whatever your list, it will barely scratch the surface of this rich and rewarding region.
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A centre of learning for 700 years, Jumièges became nothing more than a quarry after the Revolution. Today, its enigmatic ruins, romantically set in a loop of the Seine, live again as one of the “must-see” sights of Normandy (see Abbaye de Jumièges).
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Worth a detour, this delightful 18th-century inn, right next to the Seine, has excellent, traditional menus and a wine list to suit most pockets (see La Chaîne d’Or, Les Andelys).
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Below the remains of Château Gaillard (see Les Andelys and Château Gaillard), this friendly 18th-century inn by the Seine is always a welcome sight. Expect kind staff, slightly scruffy antiques, modern bathrooms and superb food.
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The cares of the world recede as you enter this enveloping 18th-century inn. Excellent traditional cooking and fine river views make an unbeatable combination. The menu détente is very reasonably priced.
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Man’s conquest of the deep is the theme of Cherbourg’s former Gare Maritime Transatlantique, an Art Deco jewel. Experience what it’s like to descend to the bottom of the ocean and live aboard a nuclear submarine (no children under six).
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This family-oriented, four-star campsite has a great swimming pool complex, with water chutes, kids’ activities and organized entertainment.
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Overlooking the spot where Joan of Arc met her death, this attractive 14th-century Norman inn is usually full. Menus lean towards the local terroir .
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Ardouval may be a sleepy hamlet, but there’s no dozing in this kitchen, where traditional Norman dishes rule the roost. Reserve 48 hours in advance.
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Pierre and Danielle Delton have turned their country home in a village by the Eure into a splendid restaurant. Excellent cheeseboard.
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Like cider, cheese is a “must-buy” in Central Normandy. This characterful farm in the south of the Pays d’Auge makes classic Pont l’Evêque and Pavé d’Auge.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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