Normandy brings a dozen different images to mind: William the Conqueror, the D-Day landings, Mont-St-Michel; the bleak landscape of the Cotentin coast, the sparkling summertime playground of the Côte Fleurie; sumptuous châteaux, historic abbeys, famous gardens; the orchards of the Auge, the picture-postcard scenery of the Suisse Normande; Monet’s home at Giverny, the Cabourg immortalized by Proust – or perhaps it’s cider, calvados and camembert. Whatever your list, it will barely scratch the surface of this rich and rewarding region.
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Only after flirtations with Impressionism and Fauvism did Dufy (1877–1953), a native of Le Havre, find his own style, using vivid, pure colour. His favourite subjects include carefree, ephemeral scenes on beaches, at horse races or regattas, and in the coastal towns of Normandy.
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Meet snakes, lizards, crocodiles and tortoises.
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Most are child-friendly, have highchairs, and offer an inexpensive menu d’enfants .
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Richard (1157–99) became duke of Normandy in 1189. In 1196, he built Château Gaillard to protect Rouen.
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The people of Caen, on the River Orne, are proud of their close connection to the sea, and here, at the mouth of the river, is “Caen-sur-Mer”: the attractive ferry and yachting port of Ouistreham and the bustling resort of Riva-Bella, with its superb sandy beach and jolly main street, rue de la Mer.
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Organized trips with unique views of the countryside include ones on the Douve and Taute in Cotentin (see By Boat).
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What little is known about the poet Robert Wace (c. 1115–c. 1183) comes from his last work, Roman de Rou , a verse history of the dukes of Normandy. Educated in Caen, he wrote his romances for the great and good there.
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After signing the Treaty of St-Clair-sur-Epte, Viking leader Hrølf (c.854–928) became Rollo, first duke of Normandy.
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In Normandy, épis de faitage , often coloured and ending either in a simple point or topped by a bird, are much admired. Seen to best effect on the fantastical 19th-century villas of Deauville, they can also be spotted in the Bayeux Tapestry. You could have one too: at Poterie du Mesnil de Bavent in Ranville, ceramic finials have been hand-produced since 1842 (see Poterie du Mesnil de Bavent, Ranville).
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Place St-Marc is the scene of a lively market on Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, with fruit, veg, bric-à-brac and second-hand book stalls. From 24 November, there’s a Christmas market in place de la Cathédrale. Stalls resembling chalets sell gastronomic specialities and arts and crafts. Among the events are concerts and pony rides.
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