Normandy brings a dozen different images to mind: William the Conqueror, the D-Day landings, Mont-St-Michel; the bleak landscape of the Cotentin coast, the sparkling summertime playground of the Côte Fleurie; sumptuous châteaux, historic abbeys, famous gardens; the orchards of the Auge, the picture-postcard scenery of the Suisse Normande; Monet’s home at Giverny, the Cabourg immortalized by Proust – or perhaps it’s cider, calvados and camembert. Whatever your list, it will barely scratch the surface of this rich and rewarding region.
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Follow the GR23 along the Seine’s south bank and into the Forêt de Brotonne.
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Born into a rich Rouen family, Géricault (1791–1824) shocked contemporaries with the realism of paintings such as The Raft of the Medusa .
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A painless way to see the sights, these trains run through various town centres. Details from tourist offices.
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PontauRail run a restored 1952 train at a leisurely pace between Pont-Audemer and Honfleur. The ACFVE train starts from Pacy-sur-Eure and winds its way down the lovely Eure Valley.
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Highly regarded, Norman antique furniture is characterized by four objects: the wardrobe (traditionally part of a bride’s dowry), the sideboard, the longcase clock and the box bed. Fine 18th- and 19th-century pieces, on display in museums and for sale in antique s shops, are well proportioned, elegant and often elaborately decorated.
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Under-fours travel free; four-to-12s, half-price.
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Occupying a handsome building with origins in the 13th century, this welcoming town-centre hotel makes an excellent base for exploring the Perche.
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An old, well-appointed inn on a quiet square. The attractive restaurant offers a balanced choice of classical and regional dishes.
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A popular country dish in Normandy, tripe from the excellent local cattle is cooked simply à la mode de Caen with onions, calf’s feet, Calvados and cider, while in Ferté-Macé it is made into little bundles en brochette (on skewers).
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This famous Norman speciality – or rather indulgence – refers to a shot of chilled Calvados thrown back between courses to aid digestion. The word trou means “hole”: the shot of calva , Normans fondly believe, creates a hole for more food.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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