Normandy brings a dozen different images to mind: William the Conqueror, the D-Day landings, Mont-St-Michel; the bleak landscape of the Cotentin coast, the sparkling summertime playground of the Côte Fleurie; sumptuous châteaux, historic abbeys, famous gardens; the orchards of the Auge, the picture-postcard scenery of the Suisse Normande; Monet’s home at Giverny, the Cabourg immortalized by Proust – or perhaps it’s cider, calvados and camembert. Whatever your list, it will barely scratch the surface of this rich and rewarding region.
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Avranches has a long and historic association with Mont-St-Michel, which it overlooks across the bay (one of the best views is from the Jardin des Plantes). St Aubert, who founded the abbey there, was Bishop of Avranches; his skull, complete with the hole made by St Michael’s finger, is on display in the Basilique de St-Gervais et St-Protais. In an annexe of the former episcopal palace, the Musée d’Avranches contains wonderful collections of medieval sculpture and religious art, and in the town hall library you can see the superb Mont-St-Michel manuscripts, dating back to the 8th century.
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Legend has it that Hugues de Tessé left his horse Rapide to die quietly of old age in the forest, only for the animal to trot home in rude health. He found that a spring was the cause, bathed there himself, and was also rejuvenated. Today, this calm, orderly spa town attracts thousands to its Établissement Thermal, particularly helpful for rheumatism and circulatory problems.
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Clamber to the top of the Roc au Chien for a panorama of this refined spa town steeped in legend, its lake, casino, park and avenues of gracious houses built for the wealthy who came to take the waters in the late 19th century. Sufferers from problems ranging from arthritis to stress still flock to the Établissement Thermal in its striking belle époque building.
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The long tradition of fishing in Normandy is perfectly embodied in the charming port of Barfleur. Stubby, brightly painted fishing boats jostle in the harbour, overlooked by stern granite houses braced for all weathers. Beaches for shell gathering and a lighthouse you can climb make it a perfect place to visit.
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It is said that William the Conqueror’s invasion vessel was built in this delightful fishing port. Its lighthouse, at Gatteville, is one of the tallest in France, with 365 steps to the top; when you get there, the reward is a fine panorama.
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This lively resort is formed by the villages of Barneville, Carteret and Barneville-Plage. Its rocky headland, Cap de Carteret, makes a bracing walk.
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Spectacular sandy beaches, backed by windblown dunes, sweep along the west coast of the Cotentin Peninsula, looking out toward the Channel Islands. At Barneville-Plage, between busy Barneville-Carteret and charming Portbail, the coastline becomes tame enough for a holiday beach, full to bursting in summer, and backed by lines of villas.
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Normandy has many base de loisirs (leisure bases) by lakes and on rivers, where you can enjoy swimming and watersports. Many also offer tennis, golf, riding, archery and other facilities.
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Known the world over for its famous Tapestry, the small-scale, beautifully kept cathedral town itself is far less well known – yet full of charm. Allow two hours for a visit to the Tapestry in the Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant, and at least another two to explore Vieux Bayeux (see Bayeux Tapestry).
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One edge of the market that fills place St-Patrice every Saturday morning is devoted to local smallholders, their home-grown fruit and vegetables, home-produced cheese and sausages, and their livestock: perhaps a few geese, chickens and a litter of puppies. The other stallholders are professional retailers, selling clothes as well as food.
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