Normandy brings a dozen different images to mind: William the Conqueror, the D-Day landings, Mont-St-Michel; the bleak landscape of the Cotentin coast, the sparkling summertime playground of the Côte Fleurie; sumptuous châteaux, historic abbeys, famous gardens; the orchards of the Auge, the picture-postcard scenery of the Suisse Normande; Monet’s home at Giverny, the Cabourg immortalized by Proust – or perhaps it’s cider, calvados and camembert. Whatever your list, it will barely scratch the surface of this rich and rewarding region.
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Embroidered in 1077, this much-loved treasure unfolds, with astonishing detail, clarity and drama, the story of Duke William’s conquest of England. The galleries leading up to the tapestry bring the historical background vividly to life. The cloth itself – all 70 m (230 ft) of it – is displayed behind glass.
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Unique historical document; astonishing work of art. The Tapestry tells the story of the Norman Conquest of England in 1066.
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The stark ruins of the 13th-century priory, and the parish church of St-Nicolas are eye-catching sights in this war-torn riverside town.
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A romantic private island provides the setting for Mme Yazbeck’s elegant mansion hotel and restaurant. The pastilla de lapin (in filo) is wonderful.
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On a rocky spur overlooking forest, vestigial fortifications nestle among well-preserved 17th- and 18th-century houses. There’s a wonderful mushroom fair here in late September.
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It’s worth penetrating the suburbs to find Bernay’s share of picturesque timbered houses (among them rue Gaston-Follope, lined with antiques shops), an abbey church begun in 1013, and a handsome municipal museum.
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All the charms of the Pays d’Auge are summed up in Beuvron. Its flower-decked houses are prettily striped and patterned with timber. On the south side of the central square, the delightful 15th-century Vieux Manoir is elaborately decorated with wood carvings.
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Slightly out of the way – and all the better for it – this small, pretty bistro can put fish on your table within minutes of its being landed.
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Named after the heroic leader of the US Rangers, the Colonel Rudder makes trips to Pointe du Hoc (see La Pointe du Hoc), as well as to the D-Day landing beaches and around the Îles St-Marcouf.
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As a reminder of the ferocity of war, St-Lô’s Notre-Dame church has been left virtually untouched after its bombardment; the ramparts also remain, and you can see these sights while gliding by on a barge on the River Vire.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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