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Clamber to the top of the Roc au Chien for a panorama of this refined spa town steeped in legend, its lake, casino, park and avenues of gracious houses built for the wealthy who came to take the waters in the late 19th century. Sufferers from problems ranging from arthritis to stress still flock to the Établissement Thermal in its striking belle époque building.
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The long tradition of fishing in Normandy is perfectly embodied in the charming port of Barfleur. Stubby, brightly painted fishing boats jostle in the harbour, overlooked by stern granite houses braced for all weathers. Beaches for shell gathering and a lighthouse you can climb make it a perfect place to visit.
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It is said that William the Conqueror’s invasion vessel was built in this delightful fishing port. Its lighthouse, at Gatteville, is one of the tallest in France, with 365 steps to the top; when you get there, the reward is a fine panorama.
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Spectacular sandy beaches, backed by windblown dunes, sweep along the west coast of the Cotentin Peninsula, looking out toward the Channel Islands. At Barneville-Plage, between busy Barneville-Carteret and charming Portbail, the coastline becomes tame enough for a holiday beach, full to bursting in summer, and backed by lines of villas.
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Known the world over for its famous Tapestry, the small-scale, beautifully kept cathedral town itself is far less well known – yet full of charm. Allow two hours for a visit to the Tapestry in the Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant, and at least another two to explore Vieux Bayeux (see Bayeux Tapestry).
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The stark ruins of the 13th-century priory, and the parish church of St-Nicolas are eye-catching sights in this war-torn riverside town.
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On a rocky spur overlooking forest, vestigial fortifications nestle among well-preserved 17th- and 18th-century houses. There’s a wonderful mushroom fair here in late September.
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It’s worth penetrating the suburbs to find Bernay’s share of picturesque timbered houses (among them rue Gaston-Follope, lined with antiques shops), an abbey church begun in 1013, and a handsome municipal museum.
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All the charms of the Pays d’Auge are summed up in Beuvron. Its flower-decked houses are prettily striped and patterned with timber. On the south side of the central square, the delightful 15th-century Vieux Manoir is elaborately decorated with wood carvings.
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As a reminder of the ferocity of war, St-Lô’s Notre-Dame church has been left virtually untouched after its bombardment; the ramparts also remain, and you can see these sights while gliding by on a barge on the River Vire.
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