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Normandy : Places of interest

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  • La Hague Peninsula

    Calm and lovely on a sunny spring day, rugged and wind-swept during a winter storm, this furthest prong of Cotentin is stunningly beautiful. Its stone villages, majestic cliffs, jagged rocks and hidden coves are more reminiscent of Brittany than Normandy, and the presence of a vast nuclear power station slap in the middle does not detract – at least too much – from the glorious coastline (see Nez de Jobourg).

  • Dedicated to Normandy’s famous cheese, with a reconstruction of an old production plant.

  • In Claude Alexandre’s fascinating world of miniature soldiers, each figure is hand-crafted.

  • Hardly the Alps, but this popular, scenic region is as close to Switzerland as Normandy gets, and is very different from the typical Norman landscape. On its winding northwesterly course, the River Orne has cut through the massif , creating steep banks and the occasional severe peak. The scenery along the valley is among Normandy’s most striking. None of the “heights” are really that high, but they provide some dizzying views – and plenty of scope for outdoor pursuits. Many come for the canoeing, walking, fishing or rock-climbing; others come to hang-glide off the Pain de Sucre. Another high point is the craggy Roche d’Oëtre, with magnificent views over the Rouvre gorges and beyond. The principal tourist centres are Thury-Harcourt, Pont-d’Ouilly and Clécy.

  • The layout of this enormous maize maze is changed every year. You could happily spend all day here: there are animals to see and a picnic area.

  • Le Havre was founded in 1517 to replace the ports of Honfleur, Harfleur and Caudebec, which had silted up. Now it is the country’s second port, a tribute to its astonishing recovery from the 146 separate bombing raids which flattened it in 1944. One of the few survivors is the 16th-century Cathédrale Notre-Dame, an architectural hybrid of Gothic and Renaissance styles, bristling with gargoyles. The city was rebuilt to designs by Auguste Perret, with reinforced concrete as the principal material. Typical of his style is the starkly imposing Église St-Joseph. More modern is the building of glass, aluminium and steel housing the Musée Malraux (see Musée Malraux, Le Havre). In the suburb of Montivilliers, don’t miss the Abbaye Notre-Dame, a recently restored Benedictine abbey for women.

  • Still relatively unknown, this area is famous for its powerful Percheron horses and its manors. Perche manors are quite different from typical cosy, half-timbered Norman farmhouses; they are much more defensive buildings of stone, embellished with turrets and towers. The surrounding countryside is gentle, with undulating hills, dense forest and lush valleys. Grazing Percherons add an air of serenity. Chief among its seductive villages and small towns are Mortagne and Bellême (see Mortagne-au-Perche).

  • Les Andelys and Château Gaillard

    The twin villages of Grand and Petit Andelys enjoy a glorious setting on a lazy curve of the Seine in the shadow of the pale ruins of Richard the Lionheart’s Château Gaillard, built at break-neck speed in 1196 to prevent Philippe Auguste from reaching Rouen. Below lie the winding streets of tranquil, timbered Petit Andely, and more commercial Grand Andely, with a fine 16th-to 17th-century church and two interesting museums – one dedicated to the painter Nicolas Poussin, the other to the Normandie-Niémen regiment.

  • Lessay

    The compact and comforting lines of Lessay’s abbey church, St-Trinité, make it one of the most beautiful Romanesque buildings in Normandy. Dating from 1098, it was almost destroyed in 1944, but has been magnificently reconstructed using original materials. The interior is plain and lovely, with fine stained glass adding warmth. Sleepy Lessay’s big moment comes in the second week of September, when thousands converge for the convivial three-day Foire de Ste-Croix (see Foire de Sainte-Croix, Lessay).

  • Thalassotherapy (sea-water treatment) is a speciality of Norman resorts, and at bracing Luc-sur-Mer, the cure uses kelp extract. There’s also a sea-water hammam. Children can shore-fish for crabs, shrimps and clams, and admire the skeleton of a 19 m (76 ft) beached whale on display in the attractive municipal park.

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