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Ghislaine and Sylvie Soulas sell clothes, knitwear, embroidery, linens, gifts and traditional games in this enchanting boutique.

Alexandre Audel is a potter from Martinique specializing in Vieux-Forges faïence. He also takes commissions.

One edge of the market that fills place St-Patrice every Saturday morning is devoted to local smallholders, their home-grown fruit and vegetables, home-produced cheese and sausages, and their livestock: perhaps a few geese, chickens and a litter of puppies. The other stallholders are professional retailers, selling clothes as well as food.

Handsome 18th-century houses line place St-Saveur, the attractive square in the centre of Caen where the pillory once stood, and where the colourful Friday market has been held since 1026. Stallholders sell traditional produce and, for early risers, an amazing selection of fresh fish.

One of the most impressive of the 20 or so producers along the Route du Cidre (see Pays d’Auge). As well as cider, Calvados and pommeau , you can buy Crème Calvados, cider vinegar and Pomme Captive – with the apple a “prisoner” in the bottle.

Another traditional producer in the heart of cider country, Huet has operated from the lovely half-timbered Manoir de la Brière des Fontaines since 1865. You can visit the atmospheric cider distillery before buying.

De Cru cider, which uses only one variety of apple, is produced in this distillery just south of Dieppe. Stock up in the shop; if you have time, visit the exhibition about cider-making.