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Following this area’s traditional method of smoking fish (drying in sawdust before smoking over a beechwood fire), this smoke-house sells salmon, mackerel, herring and haddock.
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Each Saturday, from 8am until noon, the long, pedestrian Grande Rue, lined with some 200 shops, becomes a massive open-air emporium. Locals set up stalls to sell their produce (organic fruit and vegetables, saucisses , jams), professionals bring imports (olives, honey, exotic cheeses) from every corner of France, and fishermen sell their morning-fresh catches. Dieppe is famous for its lisettes (baby mackerel), scallops and gendarmes , the smoked herrings available in November.
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Shopping in the traditional Tuesday market in Dives is an event, not least because it is held in the spectacular timbered halles with a red-tiled roof, built in the 15th century so that the local monastery could levy market taxes.
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Attractive plates, jugs, vases and lamps are decorated and fired according to 16th-century methods in the workshops attached to this seductive faïence shop. Demonstrations by appointment.
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On his farm on the Route du Fromage de Neufchâtel, Patrice Perrier makes and sells cider, flour, bread and the celebrated cheese.
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An excellent farmers’ market is held on Thursday and Sunday mornings in the central square of this spa town on the Route du Fromage de Neufchâtel (see Étretat). Stalls offer a range of local produce: organic dairy products, eggs, smoked meat and fish, jam and the Pays de Bray cheeses including the famous Neufchâtel. On Thursday, there is a livestock market as well.
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For more than 20 years, jovial M Gribouille has sold the best of Norman gastronomic specialities, from pommeau to confiture du lait (see Gourmet Restaurants), in his lavish emporium in Vieux Honfleur.
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The creation of handcrafted umbrellas is an art, and it is practised to perfection at H20. From plain about-town umbrellas to unique creations, the factory shop has a wide selection.
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Like cider, cheese is a “must-buy” in Central Normandy. This characterful farm in the south of the Pays d’Auge makes classic Pont l’Evêque and Pavé d’Auge.
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Foie gras, rillettes and confits from a farm deep in the Pays d’Ouche.
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