Encompassing the whole of the Département of Calvados and much of Eure, this region is the true heart of Normandy. From the earthly pleasures of Deauville to the heavenly aspirations of Ste-Thérèse’s Lisieux, from the rural idyll of the Pays d’Auge to the architectural magnificence of the Château de Beaumesnil, from the Bayeux Tapestry to the Impressionist paintings inspired by the enchanting seaport of Honfleur, central Normandy is brimming with variety and interest. William the Conqueror – born in Falaise, buried in Caen – dominates the region’s history, as do the events of D-Day, 6 June 1944, and the subsequent Battle of Normandy, played out on its wide, sandy beaches and in its attractive, historic and now carefully restored towns.
More on William the Conqueror-
Morning
Starting in Pont-Audemer , follow the sign-posted trail around the town’s highlights. If it’s Friday (market day), rue de la République will be lined with tempting food stalls.
Take the D130 for the lovely 24 km (15 mile) drive along the Risle and through the Fôret de Montfort to Le Bec-Hellouin . Wander in the abbey grounds and climb the Tour St-Nicolas for a fine view. The calm atmosphere of the village makes a perfect setting for lunch, especially at the picturesque Auberge de l’Abbaye (see Auberge de l’Abbaye, Le Bec-Hellouin). If you have a picnic, head back to Pont-Authou just north of Le Bec-Hellouin, and follow signs Canoe-Kayak-La Risle over a footbridge to a tranquil aire de pique-nique on an island in the river.
Afternoon
Leave Le Bec-Hellouin on the scenic D39 to St-Martin-du-Parc and Le Buhot, then turn left on the D26 to Harcourt, with its stern medieval fortress-château and the oldest arboretum in France (see Le Domaine d’Harcourt). Leaving by the D137, reconnect with the Risle at Brionne . There’s plenty to do here, including canoeing (see Canoeing on the Risle). The square keep (or donjon) on its hill is a fine sight against the setting sun; from it, there is a panoramic view over the Risle Valley. In town, there’s a choice of cafés and restaurants for a relaxing evening drink or a meal. Best is the 18th-century Auberge du Vieux Donjon (rue Soie).
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Ghislaine and Sylvie Soulas sell clothes, knitwear, embroidery, linens, gifts and traditional games in this enchanting boutique.
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During the Battle of Normandy, 23 Canadian soldiers were executed at this 12th-century abbey on the outskirts of Caen; a memorial garden now commemorates them. The partially ruined abbey church is a fine example of Norman Gothic architecture.
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There is a marvellous view of the abbey, its creamy 18th-century buildings nestling in the lush valley, as you enter the village from the south on the D39. The 18th-century refectory has been converted into a simple church, where its founder’s sarcophagus lies sunk beneath the altar.
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The monks of this small community welcome guests on retreat, and host summer concerts in their handsome 18th-century abbey.
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Kaleidoscopes galore, plus thaumascopes, phenakistiscopes, fantascopes, praxinoscopes and other absorbing optical objects from a manufacturer unique in Europe.
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The plentiful dishes served in this charming restaurant epitomise the phrase “typical French cuisine”.
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A stone’s throw from the gourmet Pavé d’Auge (see Pavé d’Auge, Beuvron-en-Auge), this cosy restaurant is run by women, who create a soothing atmosphere and carefully cooked dishes.
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This exquisite geranium-decked inn looks across the village green to the abbey. Finish with the tarte aux pommes flambées .
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Known the world over for its famous Tapestry, the small-scale, beautifully kept cathedral town itself is far less well known – yet full of charm. Allow two hours for a visit to the Tapestry in the Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant, and at least another two to explore Vieux Bayeux (see Bayeux Tapestry).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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