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Morning
Starting in Pont-Audemer , follow the sign-posted trail around the town’s highlights. If it’s Friday (market day), rue de la République will be lined with tempting food stalls.
Take the D130 for the lovely 24 km (15 mile) drive along the Risle and through the Fôret de Montfort to Le Bec-Hellouin . Wander in the abbey grounds and climb the Tour St-Nicolas for a fine view. The calm atmosphere of the village makes a perfect setting for lunch, especially at the picturesque Auberge de l’Abbaye (see Auberge de l’Abbaye, Le Bec-Hellouin). If you have a picnic, head back to Pont-Authou just north of Le Bec-Hellouin, and follow signs Canoe-Kayak-La Risle over a footbridge to a tranquil aire de pique-nique on an island in the river.
Afternoon
Leave Le Bec-Hellouin on the scenic D39 to St-Martin-du-Parc and Le Buhot, then turn left on the D26 to Harcourt, with its stern medieval fortress-château and the oldest arboretum in France (see Le Domaine d’Harcourt). Leaving by the D137, reconnect with the Risle at Brionne . There’s plenty to do here, including canoeing (see Canoeing on the Risle). The square keep (or donjon) on its hill is a fine sight against the setting sun; from it, there is a panoramic view over the Risle Valley. In town, there’s a choice of cafés and restaurants for a relaxing evening drink or a meal. Best is the 18th-century Auberge du Vieux Donjon (rue Soie).
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