Encompassing the whole of the Département of Calvados and much of Eure, this region is the true heart of Normandy. From the earthly pleasures of Deauville to the heavenly aspirations of Ste-Thérèse’s Lisieux, from the rural idyll of the Pays d’Auge to the architectural magnificence of the Château de Beaumesnil, from the Bayeux Tapestry to the Impressionist paintings inspired by the enchanting seaport of Honfleur, central Normandy is brimming with variety and interest. William the Conqueror – born in Falaise, buried in Caen – dominates the region’s history, as do the events of D-Day, 6 June 1944, and the subsequent Battle of Normandy, played out on its wide, sandy beaches and in its attractive, historic and now carefully restored towns.
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The stark ruins of the 13th-century priory, and the parish church of St-Nicolas are eye-catching sights in this war-torn riverside town.
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A romantic private island provides the setting for Mme Yazbeck’s elegant mansion hotel and restaurant. The pastilla de lapin (in filo) is wonderful.
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It’s worth penetrating the suburbs to find Bernay’s share of picturesque timbered houses (among them rue Gaston-Follope, lined with antiques shops), an abbey church begun in 1013, and a handsome municipal museum.
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Named after the heroic leader of the US Rangers, the Colonel Rudder makes trips to Pointe du Hoc (see La Pointe du Hoc), as well as to the D-Day landing beaches and around the Îles St-Marcouf.
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An excellent base for exploring the Risle Valley, this small market town is watched over by an 11th-century keep.
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Reconstructed after the war, Caen retains its compact historic centre and Romanesque architectural masterpieces, including William the Conqueror’s abbey church of St-Etienne, which sheltered hundreds of citizens during the ferocious Battle of Caen in 1944. Many visitors head straight for the absorbing Mémorial museum on the outskirts and then leave, but any time spent in this lively, cultured city with a fascinating history is time well spent.
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One of the most impressive of the 20 or so producers along the Route du Cidre (see Pays d’Auge). As well as cider, Calvados and pommeau , you can buy Crème Calvados, cider vinegar and Pomme Captive – with the apple a “prisoner” in the bottle.
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Another traditional producer in the heart of cider country, Huet has operated from the lovely half-timbered Manoir de la Brière des Fontaines since 1865. You can visit the atmospheric cider distillery before buying.
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Another delightful canoe or kayak trip, on the beautiful stretch of the Eure north of Pacy (see Vallée de l’Eure).
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Hire a canoe or kayak for a lazy descent of the lovely River Risle.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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