DK Travel : Normandy : Central Normandy

Encompassing the whole of the Département of Calvados and much of Eure, this region is the true heart of Normandy. From the earthly pleasures of Deauville to the heavenly aspirations of Ste-Thérèse’s Lisieux, from the rural idyll of the Pays d’Auge to the architectural magnificence of the Château de Beaumesnil, from the Bayeux Tapestry to the Impressionist paintings inspired by the enchanting seaport of Honfleur, central Normandy is brimming with variety and interest. William the Conqueror – born in Falaise, buried in Caen – dominates the region’s history, as do the events of D-Day, 6 June 1944, and the subsequent Battle of Normandy, played out on its wide, sandy beaches and in its attractive, historic and now carefully restored towns.

More on William the Conqueror

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Clécy

This pretty stone-built village in the Suisse Normande (see La Suisse Normande, La Suisse Normande) boasts one of Europe’s largest model railways (see Musée du Chemin de Fer Miniature), but its main attraction is the wide range of holiday activities on offer.
Conches-en-Ouche

Approached on the D830 from Evreux, the town’s fine setting above a bend in the River Rouloir is revealed.
D-Day Beaches

Sixty years after D-Day, the momentous events of 6 June 1944, when the Allies landed on the beaches of the huge Seine Bay, are commemorated in memorials, museums and cemeteries.
Deauville and La Côte Fleurie

Normandy’s most alluring stretch of coast, fringed by marvellous sandy beaches, is enlivened by a string of resorts that offer something for everyone: gambling or, if you can’t afford to gamble, people-watching in opulent Deauville; shrimping and sand-yachting in Houlgate and Cabourg; and the many amusements of happy-go-lucky Trouville. The D513 follows the coast, dipping inland around the impressive corniche, Falaises des Vaches Noires, that rises up between Houlgate and Villerssur-Mer.
Eglise Abbatiale, St-Pierre-sur-Dives

At noon, the copper strip on the floor of the nave shows the position of the sun’s rays.
Espace Nautile, Lisieux

In bad weather, an indoor swimming pool can be a godsend; the best is here, with a 54 m (180 ft) slide.
Eur’Autruche, Beaumesnil

If you crave close contact with ostriches, Eur’Autruche is the place to go, especially in mid-May, when the babies are hatched. As well as meeting the ostriches, you can buy feathers, eggs and – you’ve guessed it – ostrich steaks.
Evreux

Capital of the département of Eure, Evreux has had a turbulent history and more than its fair share of siege and invasion since the Vandals first sacked it in the 5th century. Damaged during World War II, its centre has been rebuilt, and its gardens, footpaths and riverside walks make it a very pleasant town. In the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame, the Renaissance carvings round the north door date from the height of the Flamboyant period, as do the marvellously delicate leaf and flower motifs in the transept and the lantern tower. Despite fire and bombs, much of the antique glass has been restored. The Musée d’Evreux includes Gallo-Roman archaeological finds, plus fine carved misericords and tapestries in the medieval section.
Falaise

The dashing equestrian statue of William the Conqueror, his charger rearing heroically, sets the tone in the main square of this attractive and intriguing town. Falaise is dominated by its vast fortress, Château Guillaumele-Conquérant, birthplace of William in 1027. In August 1944, it was the site of the fierce and decisive Battle of the MortainFalaise Pocket. In the valley below, a modern sculpture recalls the spot where William’s father, Robert the Magnificent, saw his future wife, the beautiful Arlette, washing clothes in the stream. Also worth a visit are Automates Avenue, a collection of 20th-century automata that once graced Parisian shop windows, and Musée Août 1944, housed in a former cheese factory.
Gribouille, Honfleur

For more than 20 years, jovial M Gribouille has sold the best of Norman gastronomic specialities, from pommeau to confiture du lait (see Gourmet Restaurants), in his lavish emporium in Vieux Honfleur.