Inland from the dramatic cÔte d’albÂtre , with its harbours and seaside resorts sheltering between chalky cliffs, northeastern Normandy is dominated by the Seine, which follows a meandering course at its southern border. An unspoilt region of forests and rivers, it embraces the département of Seine-Maritime and – north of the Seine and reaching to the Epte – a slice of Eure. At the confluence of the two rivers is Giverny, the village made famous by Monet. Seine-Maritime has a varied landscape with the lush, sparsely populated Pays de Bray in the northeast and, at its heart, the limestone plateau of the Pays de Caux. Between the sea and the cultured cathedral city of Rouen, one magnificent abbey after another overlooks the wooded banks of the Seine Valley – stations on the well-trodden Abbey Route.
For more beach resorts (see Spas and Resorts) More on Étretat More on Lyons-la-Forêt-
Morning
Take the D982 from Rouen to St-Martin-deBoscherville to visit the lovely Romanesque Abbaye St-Georges de Boscherville . Walk around the gardens and enjoy the views. After a browse in the abbey shop, revive yourself at one of the village bars.
Cotinue on the D982 until you reach the D143 turn-off for the bewitching, ruined Abbaye de Jumièges . This is a place for calm contemplation, so don’t rush your visit. Afterwards, make your way to the picturesque Seine-side inn Auberge du Bac (2 rue Alphonse Callais) for lunch.
Afternoon
Retrace your steps to the D982 and head on to the Abbaye de St-Wandrille . Finish with a visit to the shop, filled with goods produced by the monks.
Cross the elegant Pont de Brotonne into the Forêt de Brotonne via the D40, and spend the rest of the afternoon exploring this tranquil forest at the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional des Boucles de la Seine Normande . Visit the Maison du Parc in Notre-Dame-de-Bliquetuit, then stop for tea at the simple Chez Agnès. Leave the forest on the D913, take the little roads via Barneville and Mauny to La Bouille, where the bac (ferryboat) will ferry you across the river to Sahurs. From here, turn right and follow signs for Rouen.
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The breathtakingly lovely ruins of a 7th-century abbey, which once housed a community of 900 monks.
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The chequered history of this working Benedictine monastery goes back to 649, and includes a spell in the 19th century as home to the Marquis of Stackpole.
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A 14th-century barn houses the abbey shop, outlet for the monks’ own products, including CDs of Gregorian chant, honey and beeswax candles.
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An exquisite example of Norman Romanesque architecture.
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Fresh ingredients, deftly prepared, at this charming inn by a country river, just minutes from Dieppe’s lively fish market.
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Alexandre Audel is a potter from Martinique specializing in Vieux-Forges faïence. He also takes commissions.
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Slightly out of the way – and all the better for it – this small, pretty bistro can put fish on your table within minutes of its being landed.
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A jaunty little Seine-side town with a centuries-old Saturday market, brilliant museum of river life, Flamboyant Gothic church and medieval Templar’s house.
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This impressive moated château of stone and brick, built by François Mansart (whose uncle built Versailles) in the 1640s, has always been in the same family.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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