Normandy’s northwest is a world of its own . Thrusting into the English Channel is the Cotentin Peninsula, with picturesque little ports, long, unspoilt beaches, and gannets and shearwaters wheeling in the sky above wild and windblown headlands. Cotentin’s proud maritime heritage is evident, especially in the important strategic port and naval base of Cherbourg, and it was from here in the Middle Ages that the descendants of Norse settlers set sail to establish kingdoms in Sicily and southern Italy. Further south, in the heart of the region – which encompasses the département of Manche – lies the marshy landscape of the Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin, a paradise for nature lovers. Further south, there are meadows and hedgerows (bocage ), and the lovely River Vire, seemingly made for pleasure.
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Morning
Leave Cherbourg on the D901 toward St-Pierre-Église. After 15 km (9 miles), turn onto the D355 to pretty Le Vast in the heart of the lovely Val de Saire. Be sure to buy a delicious brioche du Vast from Olivier Thebault, 12 les Moulins. Follow the river on the D25 to Valcanville, then on the D125 to La Pernelle, climbing the steep granite hill to the church and, above, a magnificent panorama of the coast.
In St-Vaast-la-Hougue (see St-Vaast-la-Hougue and Île de Tatihou), book a table for lunch (don’t forget to try some St-Vaast oysters) at France et des Fuchsias (see France et des Fuchsias, St-Vaast-la-Hougue), then stock up on food and wine at the family-run emporium Gosselin, trading since 1889. If there’s time, take a trip to Île de Tatihou , just offshore.
Afternoon
From St-Vaast, it’s a quick drive along the D14 to Quineville, then the coastal D421 to Utah Beach to contemplate the events of June 1944 (see D-Day Beaches). After a bracing walk along the beach and dunes, head inland to Ste-Mère-Eglise and its famous church (see Utah Beach and Ste-Mère-Eglise), perhaps pausing for refreshment at Café de la Libération in rue Général-de-Gaulle.
From Ste-Mère-Église, drive into the watery heart of the Cotentin marshlands (see Parc Régional des Marais du Cotentin), ending the day on the banks of the Douve at Les Moitiers-en-Bauptois at the delightful Auberge de l’Ouve (open Apr–Sep; 02 33 21 16 26), where local eels are the speciality.
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Though much of the vast nave is missing, this Benedictine abbey is still a powerful reminder of the importance of monasteries in medieval times.
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Tucked beneath a wooded escarpment by the River Sienne, Hambye’s roofless remains have an immediately calming effect on visitors. The monastic buildings have been restored, and host exhibitions and concerts.
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There is a working windmill next door, but it’s the rustic calm of this thatched cottage, the modest prices, and the honest approach to traditional Norman cuisine that really appeal.
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It is said that William the Conqueror’s invasion vessel was built in this delightful fishing port. Its lighthouse, at Gatteville, is one of the tallest in France, with 365 steps to the top; when you get there, the reward is a fine panorama.
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This lively resort is formed by the villages of Barneville, Carteret and Barneville-Plage. Its rocky headland, Cap de Carteret, makes a bracing walk.
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As a reminder of the ferocity of war, St-Lô’s Notre-Dame church has been left virtually untouched after its bombardment; the ramparts also remain, and you can see these sights while gliding by on a barge on the River Vire.
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This quiet town is noted for its Trappist monastery and its old castle.
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The roofless remains of this once-great château, the ancestral home of the Argouges family, lie in quiet countryside. An exhibition tells its story.
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The beautiful park of this 16th-century château, with its romantic turreted gatehouse, is loveliest in May and June when the rhododendrons are in bloom.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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