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Morning
Leave Cherbourg on the D901 toward St-Pierre-Église. After 15 km (9 miles), turn onto the D355 to pretty Le Vast in the heart of the lovely Val de Saire. Be sure to buy a delicious brioche du Vast from Olivier Thebault, 12 les Moulins. Follow the river on the D25 to Valcanville, then on the D125 to La Pernelle, climbing the steep granite hill to the church and, above, a magnificent panorama of the coast.
In St-Vaast-la-Hougue (see St-Vaast-la-Hougue and Île de Tatihou), book a table for lunch (don’t forget to try some St-Vaast oysters) at France et des Fuchsias (see France et des Fuchsias, St-Vaast-la-Hougue), then stock up on food and wine at the family-run emporium Gosselin, trading since 1889. If there’s time, take a trip to Île de Tatihou , just offshore.
Afternoon
From St-Vaast, it’s a quick drive along the D14 to Quineville, then the coastal D421 to Utah Beach to contemplate the events of June 1944 (see D-Day Beaches). After a bracing walk along the beach and dunes, head inland to Ste-Mère-Eglise and its famous church (see Utah Beach and Ste-Mère-Eglise), perhaps pausing for refreshment at Café de la Libération in rue Général-de-Gaulle.
From Ste-Mère-Église, drive into the watery heart of the Cotentin marshlands (see Parc Régional des Marais du Cotentin), ending the day on the banks of the Douve at Les Moitiers-en-Bauptois at the delightful Auberge de l’Ouve (open Apr–Sep; 02 33 21 16 26), where local eels are the speciality.
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