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Northwestern Normandy : Places of interest

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  • Tucked beneath a wooded escarpment by the River Sienne, Hambye’s roofless remains have an immediately calming effect on visitors. The monastic buildings have been restored, and host exhibitions and concerts.

  • It is said that William the Conqueror’s invasion vessel was built in this delightful fishing port. Its lighthouse, at Gatteville, is one of the tallest in France, with 365 steps to the top; when you get there, the reward is a fine panorama.

  • As a reminder of the ferocity of war, St-Lô’s Notre-Dame church has been left virtually untouched after its bombardment; the ramparts also remain, and you can see these sights while gliding by on a barge on the River Vire.

  • The beautiful park of this 16th-century château, with its romantic turreted gatehouse, is loveliest in May and June when the rhododendrons are in bloom.

  • There’s more than meets the eye to Cherbourg, especially since the opening, in 2002, of its latest attraction, La Cité de la Mer (see Cité de la Mer, Cherbourg). For a good view of the port, drive to the hilltop Fort du Roule, which houses the Musée de la Libération, recalling the events leading to Cherbourg’s liberation on 27 June 1944. Most activity is centred on the flower-filled market square, pl Généralde-Gaulle, and along shopping streets such as rue Tour-Carrée and rue de la Paix. The town’s collection of fine art in the spacious Musée Thomas-Henry includes portraits by Jean-François Millet (see Gruchy). Parc Emmanuel Liais has small botanical gardens and a densely packed Musée d’Histoire Naturelle.

  • One somehow doesn’t expect to find a great cathedral in this isolated corner of France, but here it is: a soaring stone rocket crowning the hill around which the town is gathered. In the 13th century, with the aid of the de Hauteville family, who had prospered in Sicily and southern Italy, a new Norman Gothic building was surmounted on the remains of the previous, fire-damaged Romanesque one. Its remarkable octagonal lantern above the altar rises to 41 m (135 ft), and its many towers, spires and pointed arches sweep the eye skyward. In town, the flower-filled Jardin des Plantes makes a perfect setting for some of the concerts that take place in Coutances during the annual Jazz sous les Pommiers festival in May (see Jazz sous les Pommiers, Coutances).

  • A farm for children: visit the animals; see an apple press in action; bake bread for a splendid traditional tea.

  • At first sight, Granville seems an unlikely setting for one of Normandy’s most popular seaside resorts, but it has two distinct faces. Ramparts enclose the upper town, which sits on a rocky spur overlooking the Baie du Mont-St-Michel. The walled town developed from fortifications built by the English in 1439 as part of their assault on the Mont. The Musée de Vieux Granville, in the town gatehouse, recounts Granville’s long-established sea-faring tradition. The chapel walls of the Église de Notre-Dame are lined with tributes from local fishermen to their patroness, Notre Dame du Cap Lihou. The lower town is the resort, with casino, promenades and public gardens. From the port, there are boat trips to the Îles Chausey, a scattering of low-lying granite islands.

  • This spruce seaside village includes the humble birthplace of Jean-François Millet, open to the public in summer. Walk to the dramatic Rocher du Castel-Vendon; Millet’s depiction of it can be seen in the Musée Thomas-Henry in Cherbourg.

  • Île de Tatihou

    Children enjoy the amphibious craft that takes them across to this tiny pleasure island with a fascinating history, just off St-Vaast-la-Hougue (see St-Vaast-la-Hougue and Île de Tatihou).

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