DK Travel : Normandy : Northwestern Normandy

Normandy’s northwest is a world of its own . Thrusting into the English Channel is the Cotentin Peninsula, with picturesque little ports, long, unspoilt beaches, and gannets and shearwaters wheeling in the sky above wild and windblown headlands. Cotentin’s proud maritime heritage is evident, especially in the important strategic port and naval base of Cherbourg, and it was from here in the Middle Ages that the descendants of Norse settlers set sail to establish kingdoms in Sicily and southern Italy. Further south, in the heart of the region – which encompasses the département of Manche – lies the marshy landscape of the Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin, a paradise for nature lovers. Further south, there are meadows and hedgerows (bocage ), and the lovely River Vire, seemingly made for pleasure.

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La Cité de la Mer, Cherbourg

Man’s conquest of the deep is the theme of Cherbourg’s former Gare Maritime Transatlantique, an Art Deco jewel. Experience what it’s like to descend to the bottom of the ocean and live aboard a nuclear submarine (no children under six).
La Gonivière, St-Lô

Close to the river, an airy first-floor dining room decorated in soothing pastel shades. The cuisine is based on fresh market produce.
La Hague Peninsula

Calm and lovely on a sunny spring day, rugged and wind-swept during a winter storm, this furthest prong of Cotentin is stunningly beautiful. Its stone villages, majestic cliffs, jagged rocks and hidden coves are more reminiscent of Brittany than Normandy, and the presence of a vast nuclear power station slap in the middle does not detract – at least too much – from the glorious coastline (see Nez de Jobourg).
La Voisinière, Savigny

This farmhouse is also a charming restaurant-with-rooms. The menu du terroir offers a good introduction to Norman cuisine.
Le Mesnilgrand, Négreville

A beautifully restored traditional Norman farmhouse in deep countryside. Peace and quiet, a lovely garden, warm atmosphere and good cooking (try the raspberry tart) are assured.
Le Moulin à Vent, St-Germain-des-Vaux

Glorious views and the freshest seafood at very reasonable prices.
Lessay

The compact and comforting lines of Lessay’s abbey church, St-Trinité, make it one of the most beautiful Romanesque buildings in Normandy. Dating from 1098, it was almost destroyed in 1944, but has been magnificently reconstructed using original materials. The interior is plain and lovely, with fine stained glass adding warmth. Sleepy Lessay’s big moment comes in the second week of September, when thousands converge for the convivial three-day Foire de Ste-Croix (see Foire de Sainte-Croix, Lessay).
L’ Auberge, Mesnil-Rogues

Hams and legs of lamb spit-roasted over an open fire by jolly patron Joseph Cotentin are the specialities at this popular rustic auberge .
L’Attelage des Grandes Marées, Gouville-sur-Mer

In remembrance of the olden days, here you can visit an oyster park at low tide by horse-drawn carriage.
Manoir de Dur-Ecu

This lovely ancestral manor house hides a delightful surprise for children: a maize maze, designed by English maze-maker Adrian Fisher.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €30
- €30–€40
- €40–€50
- €50–€60
- over €60