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Northwestern Normandy : Overview & Top 10

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Normandy’s northwest is a world of its own . Thrusting into the English Channel is the Cotentin Peninsula, with picturesque little ports, long, unspoilt beaches, and gannets and shearwaters wheeling in the sky above wild and windblown headlands. Cotentin’s proud maritime heritage is evident, especially in the important strategic port and naval base of Cherbourg, and it was from here in the Middle Ages that the descendants of Norse settlers set sail to establish kingdoms in Sicily and southern Italy. Further south, in the heart of the region – which encompasses the département of Manche – lies the marshy landscape of the Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin, a paradise for nature lovers. Further south, there are meadows and hedgerows (bocage ), and the lovely River Vire, seemingly made for pleasure.

  • The 12th-century castle houses the Musée Barbey d’Aurevilly, dedicated to the 19th-century novelist who was born in the town (see Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly).

  • The harbour of this enchanting small port was fortified after the French naval defeat in 1692, as was the Île de Tatihou – now the site of a garden, bird-watching post and maritime museum.

  • Apart from its war museum and church, made famous by the film The Longest Day , the town is known for its livestock market. Rural life in the early 1900s is illustrated at the Ferme Musée du Cotentin.

  • On D-Day, 6 June 1944, the eastern coast of the Cotentin Peninsula, code-named Utah Beach, received thousands of American troops, backed up by paratroops dropped inland around Ste-Mère-Eglise (see D-Day Beaches).

  • The gentle prettiness of this verdant valley east of Barfleur is in sharp contrast to the wild coastline (see A Day in Cotentin).

  • Vallée de la Vire

    As it winds towards the sea, the River Vire cuts deeply through granite schists to form a ribbon of water amid glorious countryside. Towpaths border most of the river between Vire and St-Lô, so you can picnic, cycle, walk or horse-ride alongside. Condé-sur-Vire is the place for canoeing, while at Roches de Ham, the granite terrain leaps up to form a towering 80 m (260 ft) rock face above the river. Here are magnificent views of the verdant valley – and a welcome little crêperie and cider bar in summer. Nearby, La Chapellesur-Vire makes a perfect picnic spot. The grandiose chapel that dominates the village has been a place of pilgrimage since the 12th century. At Torigni-sur-Vire, the Château de Matignon houses a fine collection of tapestries.

  • Though badly damaged in 1944, Valognes retains traces of its glory days as the “Versailles of the North” – including the splendid Hôtel de Beaumont.

  • The subtropical gardens of Château de Vauville and a beach perfect for sand yachting are the twin attractions here.

  • A network of circular cycle paths, each about 20 km (12 miles), has been developed all over rural Manche especially for family bike rides.

  • Elegantly rustic on the inside, this old, ivy-covered farmhouse offers well-prepared dishes spread over a wide enough range of menus to suit most pockets.

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