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Police issue heavy fines on the spot for speeding and for other motoring offences. The blood-alcohol limit for drink-driving is low: one glass of wine or a 33 cl bottle of beer will take you close to the limit, two will exceed it. Drivers who cannot pay fines in cash on the spot have their vehicles impounded.

Many hotels charge very high rates for international phone calls. It is far cheaper to call from a post office or telephone booth using coins, a credit card or phonecard.

Like many other European destinations, Normandy is at its best in late spring and early autumn. In August, the seaside resorts are packed with French holidaymakers, and the autoroutes (motorways) become very crowded – especially during the first and last weekends of the month. Resorts are also busy at weekends from spring to autumn, packed with Parisians escaping the city.

Get to popular tourist attractions such Mont-St-Michel, Giverny (see Fondation Claude Monet, Giverny), the Bayeux Tapestry, Le Mémorial de Caen and Cité de la Mer (see Cité de la Mer, Cherbourg) before they open: 15 minutes waiting then could save you much longer queueing time later on. Late afternoon is also a good time to avoid the queues.

Normandy has always been a very popular destination for both French and English school trips, with the Bayeux Tapestry, D-Day Beaches and the Mémorial de Caen at the top of the agenda. Though the museums are adept at dealing with them, the resultant noise and high spirits can be distracting, so term-times are best avoided.

The crowds at Mont-St-Michel in July and August make it quite unbearable. If at all possible, you should try to visit this unique and wonderful site out of season (September to April).

Cherbourg’s Cité de la Mer has been such a success that, in high season, some visitors are unable to tour the submarine, which can only accommodate a few at a time. In July and August, arrive early to avoid disappointment.

When paying a bill, make sure you check if service is included – you will usually find that it is. Taking your drink or snack at the counter, if there is one, will be cheaper; prices are lower and no tip is expected – though you could leave some small change if you want to. If you sit at a table, you will be charged for the privilege.

Restaurants and cafés normally include a 10–15 per cent service charge on the bill, so you should only leave a further small gratuity if you feel the service has been particularly good. Taxi drivers should get 15–20 per cent. Porters are tipped €1.50 per bag, and chambermaids a similar amount per day at the end of your stay.

It used to be said that you could never eat badly in France; sadly, it is becoming increasingly common. Although they are still in the minority, there are more and more places which look for a quick profit at the expense of the tourist, who will in all likelihood never return. Avoid signs proclaiming a “Menu Touristique” – such restaurants may be absolutely fine but, as ever, the best advice is to go where the locals go.