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Morning

Try to get to the Eiffel Tower early, to beat the worst of the queues, and take the lift to the top to admire the spectacular panorama. After descending, take tea at the Pâtisserie de la Tour Eiffel (21 ave de la Bourdonnais), whose terrace has a great view.

Walk towards the Seine and turn right before crossing the river. A stroll along the riverbank is always pleasant if the weather is kind (see Riverfront Views), and before long you will reach the Place de la Résistance. Cross the road, staying on the south side of the river, where a ticket booth masks one of the city's great secrets, Les Egouts . Don't worry about taking a torch or wearing special footwear - the area visited is well-lit and dry underfoot

If the sewers don't put you off your food, lunch at the excellent fish restaurant, Le Divellec .

Afternoon

After lunch, walk to the Hôtel des Invalides to see Napoleon's Tomb and the beautiful domed church, and then visit the almost adjacent Musée Rodin and stroll in its gardens.

On leaving the museum turn right along rue de Varenne, until it meets rue du Bac. Here, at No. 109, is Le Bac à Glaces, a combined tearoom and ice cream parlour - perfect for a refreshing rest.

Morning

It would be hard to imagine a better start to a day in Paris than going to the Palais de Chaillot and seeing the perfect view it has across the Seine to the Eiffel Tower . Then tour the fascinating collections of the Musée de l’Homme and, if marine history is your thing, the Musée de la Marine , both in the palace. Outside the palace, take a break in the Café du Trocadéro (8 pl du Trocadéro 01 44 05 37 00) and watch the comings and goings in the square.

Afterwards, head along rue Benjamin Franklin and rue Raynouard, where you will find first the Musée du Vin and the Maison de Balzac. Walk to the far side of the Maison de Radio France building for a brunch or lunch at Zebra Square .

Afternoon

Revived, walk back along the Seine towards the Palais de Chaillot, and head up to the place d’Iéna to the recently refurbished and much improved Musée National des Arts Asiatiques- Guimet for its spectacular Eastern artworks.

By now you will definitely be in need of a rest, so return to the place du Trocadéro for a coffee at the excellent Carette café at No. 4 (01 47 27 88 56). End the day in the peaceful Cimetière de Passy and admire its ornate tombs, before heading back to your hotel.

Morning

Tackle the Centre Georges Pompidou early, as the expansive modern art museum is worth a leisurely visit, and some of the excellent temporary exhibits may catch your eye. If you need refreshment after all that art, it has to be Georges, the brasserie at the top of the centre with good views and a choice of drinks, snacks or main meals.

On leaving the centre turn left to see the adjacent Stravinsky Fountain, then walk to the far end to visit the Eglise St-Merry.

Providing you have booked ahead, lunch at the 1912 bistro Benoit , whose lunchtime menu is far cheaper than in the evening. If you’re out by 3pm watch the clock on the Défenseur du Temps strike.

Afternoon

Pass the Fontaine des Innocents as you head for Les Halles, but first go into the church of St-Eustache which was the place of worship of the market workers at the old Les Halles. You could then spend the rest of the afternoon shopping at the vast, if somewhat unprepossessing Forum des Halles .

Stop for a drink at A La Tour de Montlhéry, more commonly known as Chez Denise (see Tour de Montlhéry, Chez Denise). It’s packed at mealtimes, but by late afternoon you might be lucky enough to get a seat and be ready to try their famous Gâteau Marguerite with strawberries and cream.

Morning

As with all the city's busy attractions, the sooner you get to Sacré-Coeur the more you will have it to yourself - it opens at 6am. Later in the morning, enjoy the bustle of Montmartre with tourists having their portraits painted by the area's street artists in the place du Tertre. There are plenty of places to choose for a coffee, but the one most of the artists frequent is the Clairon des Chasseurs (3 pl du Tertre 01 42 62 40 08).

For art of a more surreal kind, pay a visit to the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí . Head down rue des Saules to continue the artistic theme with lunch at La Maison Rose (2 rue de l'Abreuvoir o 01 42 57 66 75). Utrillo once painted this pretty pink restaurant.

Afternoon

After lunch, the Musée de Montmartre is nearby, as are the Montmartre Vineyards, and the little Cimetière St-Vincent where you will find Maurice Utrillo's grave.

Head back up to rue Lepic to see the Moulin de la Galette before heading towards the boulevard de Clichy. Here you will see the sleazy side of Pigalle life, although the Musée de l'Erotisme is a more tasteful interpretation.

To the east is a great bar for an apéritif, La Fourmi (74 rue des Martyrs 01 42 64 70 35). Then end the day with a show at the world-famous Moulin Rouge cabaret.