The small but lively Beaubourg quarter , brimming with art galleries and cafés, has become a major tourist attraction since the construction of the Centre Georges Pompidou. This inside-out hulk of modern architecture has become the focus of the area and receives more annual visitors than either the Musée du Louvre or the Eiffel Tower. Les Halles was the marketplace of Paris for 800 years, its glass-covered pavilions packed with butchers, fishmongers and fruit and vegetable stalls; novelist Emile Zola called it “the belly of Paris”. In 1969, the market was demolished and moved to the suburbs to alleviate traffic congestion. Sadly, the soulless underground shopping mall, Forum des Halles, replaced it, but there are still a few old-time bistros and specialist food shops that survive to recall its former character.
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A larger market for meat, fruit and vegetables was at this time known to exist in the part of Paris which is now Les Halles.
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The market is enlarged by King Philippe Auguste, who built shelters for the market traders near St-Eustache church. This date is generally accepted as the founding of Les Halles as the city’s market.
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Twelve huge iron structures are built to house the market. Napoleon III declares that Les Halles is essential to Paris life.
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Work begins on a modern wholesale market south of Paris, at Rungis.
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The market is closed and moved to Rungis, partly to ease the traffic congestion that was by now too much for the centre of the city.
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The old buildings are demolished and digging begins, to create for a time what is known as the trou des Halles (the hole of Les Halles).
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The Forum des Halles opens and ensures that the area remains as busy as ever, although the goods for sale (high fashion, CDs, fast food) have changed considerably since the market’s early days.
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Second phase of the Forum des Halles opens, creating the biggest collection of shops under one roof in Paris, though many will always lament the passing of the original market.
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Morning
Tackle the Centre Georges Pompidou early, as the expansive modern art museum is worth a leisurely visit, and some of the excellent temporary exhibits may catch your eye. If you need refreshment after all that art, it has to be Georges, the brasserie at the top of the centre with good views and a choice of drinks, snacks or main meals.
On leaving the centre turn left to see the adjacent Stravinsky Fountain, then walk to the far end to visit the Eglise St-Merry.
Providing you have booked ahead, lunch at the 1912 bistro Benoit , whose lunchtime menu is far cheaper than in the evening. If you’re out by 3pm watch the clock on the Défenseur du Temps strike.
Afternoon
Pass the Fontaine des Innocents as you head for Les Halles, but first go into the church of St-Eustache which was the place of worship of the market workers at the old Les Halles. You could then spend the rest of the afternoon shopping at the vast, if somewhat unprepossessing Forum des Halles .
Stop for a drink at A La Tour de Montlhéry, more commonly known as Chez Denise (see Tour de Montlhéry, Chez Denise). It’s packed at mealtimes, but by late afternoon you might be lucky enough to get a seat and be ready to try their famous Gâteau Marguerite with strawberries and cream.
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Long-time Les Halles favourite. If your taste is not for offal, there are options such as oysters and steak.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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