Paris was born on the Ile de la Cité . The first settlers came to this island on the Seine in 300 BC (see Arrival of the Parisii) and it has remained a focus of church and state power through the centuries, with the great cathedral of Notre-Dame and the law courts of the Palais de Justice commanding the island. This tiny land mass also has the honour of being the geographical heart of the country – all French distances are measured from Point Zéro, just outside Notre-Dame. While the Ile de la Cité seems overrun with tourists, the smaller Ile St-Louis, connected to its neighbour by a bridge, has a village-like feel and has been an exclusive residential enclave since the 17th century. Its main street is lined with shops, galleries and restaurants and is a wonderful place for a stroll.
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Morning
Arrive at Notre-Dame by 8am to beat the crowds and appreciate its magnificence, then head for the fragrant Marché aux Fleurs. As well as flowers, you can buy all kinds of garden accessories and seeds. Return to Notre-Dame if you want to ascend the towers, which open at 10am. Take a coffee break at Le Flore en l’Ile , with its views of the cathedral.
The fascinating Crypte Archéologique is worth a half-hour visit, then spend the late morning at Sainte-Chapelle , when the sun beams through the stained-glass windows.
There are plenty of places for lunch, but on a sunny day try La Rose de France with its terrace seating.
Afternoon
Spend a leisurely afternoon strolling the narrow streets of the Ile St-Louis, which are filled with characterful shops and galleries (see Shopping).
Wind up with an afternoon treat by visiting Berthillon, considered the best ice cream purveyor in Paris.
31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile Open 10am–8pm Wed–Sun closed AugWith more than 70 flavours on offer, from plain vanilla to whisky, and including virtually any fruit you can think of, the hardest part will be choosing, although there is plenty of time to make your choice as there will inevitably be a queue, especially in summer
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A wealth of meteorites, fossils and minerals. Some specimens are put to good use in imaginative jewellery.
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A wonderful collection of ethnic goods including carvings, furniture, jewellery and other craft items from all over the world.
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A stylish shop that sells French-designed jewellery along with all manner of other tastefully made items including pens, photograph frames and a range of stationery.
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You won’t be able to resist the bread baking in the wood-burning oven from this old-fashioned bakery.
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Wooden tables and a rustic look complement hearty Alsace fare, such as tripe in Riesling wine.
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Ornate mirrored walls and gold decor complement a simple but quality menu.
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The place to stock up for a picnic or the day’s treats: superb croissants for the morning, pâtés and terrines and irresistible desserts for lunch.
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This imposing Gothic palace, built by Philippe le Bel (the Fair) in 1301–15, has a rich history. Parts of it were turned into a prison, controlled by the concierge, or keeper of the king’s mansion, hence the name. Ravaillac, assassin of Henri IV, was tortured here, but it was during the Revolution that the prison became a place of terror, when thousands were held here awaiting execution at the guillotine. Today you can see the Salle des Gardes and the magnificent vaulted Salle des Gens d’rmes (Hall of the Men-at Arms), the medieval kitchens, torture chamber, the Bonbec tower, and the prison. The cell where Marie-Antoinette was held and the history of other famous Revolution prisoners is on display. Outside, look for the square Tour de l’Horloge, erected in 1370, which houses the city’s first public clock, still ticking away.
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Fascinating remnants of early Paris dating back to Gallo-Roman times were discovered in 1965 during an excavation of the square in front of Notre-Dame in order to build an underground car park. The archaeological crypt displays parts of 3rd-century Roman walls, rooms heated by hypocaust, as well as remains of medieval streets and foundations. The scale models showing the evolution of the city from its origins as a Celtic settlement are particularly interesting.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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