Traditionally one of the most peaceful areas of Paris, the medicinal herb gardens which give the quarter its name were established here in 1626. It retained a rural atmosphere until the 19th century, when the city’s population expanded and the surrounding streets were built up. Near the gardens is the Arènes de Lutèce, a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre. The rue Mouffetard, winding down the hill from the bustling place de la Contrescarpe, dates from medieval times and has one of the best markets in the city. The area is also home to a sizeable Muslim community, focused on the Institut du Monde Arabe cultural centre and the Paris Mosque. In contrast to the striking Islamic architecture are the grey slab 1960s buildings of the Paris university Jussieu campus.
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Morning
If it’s a fine morning get an early start and enjoy a stroll in the Jardin des Plantes before the city gets truly busy. The Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle doesn’t open until 10am, but the garden is close enough to rue Mouffetard to enable you to enjoy the fabulous market, which gets going by about 8am. Don’t forget to take your eyes off the stalls every now and then to see the splendid old buildings on this medieval street. Then return to the museum and its Evolution Gallery.
From the gardens it is a short walk to the Place de la Contrescarpe. Enjoy this friendly square before walking down the rue Mouffetard for a coffee at one of its many cafés. Once revived, walk down to the bottom of the road to see the church of St- Médard on your left.
Turn left along rue Monge to the Arènes de Lutèce. A couple of minutes away is a little bistro, Le Buisson Ardent (25 rue Jussieu 01 43 54 93 02), which is ideal for lunch.
Afternoon
You can spend part of the afternoon at the Institut du Monde Arabe , exploring its beautiful Islamic artworks, before walking down to admire the Moorish architecture of the Mosquée de Paris . Finish the day with a mint tea at the Café de la Mosquée (pl du Puits-de-l’Ermité 01 45 35 97 33).
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One of the stars of the Botanical Gardens, with more than 3,000 plants from the world’s many diverse Alpine regions. There are samples from Corsica to the Caucasus, from Morocco to the Himalaya.
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Bistro with an inventive and inexpensive menu.
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The remains of the 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre from the settlement of Lutetia (see Roman Settlement) lay buried for centuries and were only discovered in 1869 during construction of the rue Monge. The novelist Victor Hugo, concerned with the preservation of his city’s historic buildings, including Notre-Dame (see The Man Who Saved Notre-Dame), led the campaign for the restoration. The original arena would have had 35 tiers and could seat 15,000 spectators for theatrical performances and gladiator fights.
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Spicy Seychelles cuisine, such as octopus curry or smoked swordfish. Vegetarians should book ahead.
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One for game lovers, with lièvre à la royale (hare in a wine sauce) the house speciality. Boisterous atmosphere.
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This magnificent tree was planted in 1734, and came from London’s Botanic Gardens in Kew, although a story grew up that its seed was brought here all the way from Syria in the hat of a scientist.
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Not the best place for vegetarians, with pot au feu , tongue and other meaty delights, but there is also fish.
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Outside the Palaeontology Gallery, which is crammed with precious dinosaur skeletons, is a huge dinosaur model, specifically designed for children to climb on (see Grande Galerie de l’volution).
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One of the trees in the Botanical Gardens is the Ginkgo biloba , which is 150 years old but the species is known to have existed in exactly the same form in the days of the dinosaurs, 125 million years ago.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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