For many, the Marais is the most enjoyable quarter of Paris, with its mansions, museums and medieval lanes, but the district was little more than a muddy swamp until Henri IV built the place Royale (now place des Vosges) in 1605. Following its notoriety as the birthplace of the Revolution, the Bastille sank into oblivion, until artists and designers arrived in the 1990s. Its streets are now home to the city’s liveliest nightspots.
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Morning
Begin the morning at the Musée Picasso , to beat the crowds and allow enough time to view the huge collection. There is also an excellent gift shop. Afterwards, walk to the place des Vosges, and do a circuit of the arcades. Stand in the centre near the fountains to take in the whole square.
Have a coffee at Ma Bourgogne (19 pl des Vosges 01 42 78 44 64), right on the square. Afterwards, tour the Maison de Victor Hugo, on the southeast corner to the Musée Picasso (see (see p87). Take the rue de Birague which leads to rue Faubourg-St-Antoine. Turn left and walk to place de la Bastille.
A good lunch choice is Bofinger , with its ornate decor and true Parisian feel.
Afternoon
The Place de la Bastille is something of a traffic nightmare, but take time to admire the statue in the centre and contemplate the events that happened here when this was the site of the city’s dreaded prison. Walk around the square and along rue Faubourg-St-Antoine, a now fashionable shopping street. Turn off down some of the passageways to see the furniture-makers and craft workshops that have a long history in the area.
From here it’s not far to Le Baron Rouge wine bar, for a restorative glass of wine, coffee and cake or a light early evening meal.
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This shop doesn’t just sell chocolate, you can watch it being made. More than 40 flavours and novelty chocolates in all shapes.
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For 150 years this shop has specialized in all kinds of oil, from the finest olive oil to massage oil.
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Fabulous displays of old kitchenware, boxes, jars, ashtrays… anything with a colourful old advertisement on it, from the 1960s back to whatever the owner can get her hands on.
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A delightful hidden treasure is this shop/workshop where the owner lovingly restores antique musical instruments such as trumpets, harps and violins.
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Exceptional baker producing traditional breads and pastries, and more unusual flavours such as a raisin rye bread.
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Vast club on three floors with a generally louche Latin atmosphere.
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The concert hall attracts international artists as well as household French names, while the adjoining bar provides beer and meals.
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The Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville is an upmarket all-round shopper’s paradise at which you can track down everything from DIY products to stylish underwear.
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This bustling bistro serves a range of dishes from steaks to more ambitious fare. Outdoor seating in summer.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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