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Morning
Begin the morning at the Musée Picasso , to beat the crowds and allow enough time to view the huge collection. There is also an excellent gift shop. Afterwards, walk to the place des Vosges, and do a circuit of the arcades. Stand in the centre near the fountains to take in the whole square.
Have a coffee at Ma Bourgogne (19 pl des Vosges 01 42 78 44 64), right on the square. Afterwards, tour the Maison de Victor Hugo, on the southeast corner to the Musée Picasso (see (see p87). Take the rue de Birague which leads to rue Faubourg-St-Antoine. Turn left and walk to place de la Bastille.
A good lunch choice is Bofinger , with its ornate decor and true Parisian feel.
Afternoon
The Place de la Bastille is something of a traffic nightmare, but take time to admire the statue in the centre and contemplate the events that happened here when this was the site of the city’s dreaded prison. Walk around the square and along rue Faubourg-St-Antoine, a now fashionable shopping street. Turn off down some of the passageways to see the furniture-makers and craft workshops that have a long history in the area.
From here it’s not far to Le Baron Rouge wine bar, for a restorative glass of wine, coffee and cake or a light early evening meal.
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