Painters and poets , from Picasso to Apollinaire, put the “art” in Montmartre, and it will forever be associated with their Bohemian lifestyles of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There are plenty of artists around today too, painting quick-fire portraits of tourists in the place du Tertre. Some say the name comes from “Mount of Martyrs”, commemorating the first bishop of Paris, St Denis, who was decapitated here by the Romans in AD 250. Parisians, however, call it the “Butte” (knoll) as it is the highest point in the city. Throngs of tourists climb the hill for the stupendous view from Sacré-Coeur, crowding the main square, but you can still discover Montmartre’s charms along the winding back streets, small squares and terraces. Below the hill, Pigalle, once home to dance halls and cabarets, has largely been taken over by sleazy sex shows along the boulevard de Clichy.
Street art, Montmartre
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Morning
As with all the city's busy attractions, the sooner you get to Sacré-Coeur the more you will have it to yourself - it opens at 6am. Later in the morning, enjoy the bustle of Montmartre with tourists having their portraits painted by the area's street artists in the place du Tertre. There are plenty of places to choose for a coffee, but the one most of the artists frequent is the Clairon des Chasseurs (3 pl du Tertre 01 42 62 40 08).
For art of a more surreal kind, pay a visit to the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí . Head down rue des Saules to continue the artistic theme with lunch at La Maison Rose (2 rue de l'Abreuvoir o 01 42 57 66 75). Utrillo once painted this pretty pink restaurant.
Afternoon
After lunch, the Musée de Montmartre is nearby, as are the Montmartre Vineyards, and the little Cimetière St-Vincent where you will find Maurice Utrillo's grave.
Head back up to rue Lepic to see the Moulin de la Galette before heading towards the boulevard de Clichy. Here you will see the sleazy side of Pigalle life, although the Musée de l'Erotisme is a more tasteful interpretation.
To the east is a great bar for an apéritif, La Fourmi (74 rue des Martyrs 01 42 64 70 35). Then end the day with a show at the world-famous Moulin Rouge cabaret.
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The Italian painter (1884–1920) and sculptor arrived in Paris in 1906, when he was 22, and was greatly influenced by Toulouse-Lautrec and the other artists on the Montmartre scene.
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This belle époque restaurant and cabaret was a popular hang-out for Picasso, Renoir, and poets Apollinaire and Paul Verlaine. It took its name from a humorous painting by André Gill of a rabbit (lapin ) leaping over a cooking pot, called the “Lapin à Gill”. In time it became known by its current name (“nimble rabbit”). It is still a popular and atmospheric evening venue.
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Poets and artists not only drank in this cabaret club, some such as Renoir and Verlaine also laid tables. Picasso even paid his bill with one of his Harlequin paintings.
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A cross between bar, pub and restaurant. Simple dishes such as pâté or potato pie.
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Outrageous show of drag artists and a compère whose behaviour can never be predicted, this is close to the original spirit of Montmartre cabaret.
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A genuine Montmartre bistro with a trendy clientele. Roasted Camembert with honey is a favourite.
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Also known as the Martyrium, this 19th-century chapel is said to be on the spot where St Denis was beheaded by the Romans in AD 250.
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Art Deco brasserie, specializing in seafood.
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A wonderfully authentic Parisian restaurant, dating back over 200 years, serving simple french dishes in original surroundings. Not fancy or expensive, but nonetheless delightful. Well worth a visit.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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