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Morning
As with all the city's busy attractions, the sooner you get to Sacré-Coeur the more you will have it to yourself - it opens at 6am. Later in the morning, enjoy the bustle of Montmartre with tourists having their portraits painted by the area's street artists in the place du Tertre. There are plenty of places to choose for a coffee, but the one most of the artists frequent is the Clairon des Chasseurs (3 pl du Tertre 01 42 62 40 08).
For art of a more surreal kind, pay a visit to the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí . Head down rue des Saules to continue the artistic theme with lunch at La Maison Rose (2 rue de l'Abreuvoir o 01 42 57 66 75). Utrillo once painted this pretty pink restaurant.
Afternoon
After lunch, the Musée de Montmartre is nearby, as are the Montmartre Vineyards, and the little Cimetière St-Vincent where you will find Maurice Utrillo's grave.
Head back up to rue Lepic to see the Moulin de la Galette before heading towards the boulevard de Clichy. Here you will see the sleazy side of Pigalle life, although the Musée de l'Erotisme is a more tasteful interpretation.
To the east is a great bar for an apéritif, La Fourmi (74 rue des Martyrs 01 42 64 70 35). Then end the day with a show at the world-famous Moulin Rouge cabaret.
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