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April in Paris may be a cliché but it is still a good time to visit. Spring and autumn are both pleasant and there are plenty of parks and tree-lined boulevards to enjoy. Although certain places shut down in August, when most Parisians take their holidays, there is still plenty to see and do.

The Left Bank is a good choice if you like a Bohemian atmosphere of cafés and clubs. The Marais has many good museums and restaurants and the Opéra and Louvre quarters are central to everything. To save money, stay slightly outside the centre and use the excellent and inexpensive metro.

If space is important, ask about the size of the rooms: some can be very cramped. It is also worth checking whether the rooms face busy, noisy roads and what is the hotel’s nearest metro station. Ask if there is an elevator to all floors, as in some older buildings this may not be the case.

If you like to eat well, or want to try a particular restaurant, phone and book a few weeks ahead of your visit. If you decide to take pot luck, however, the city is full of good places to eat and you should always be able to find a table.

Don’t expect to see the whole of Paris on a weekend visit – you would not even see the whole of the Louvre in this time (see Musée du Louvre). Even on a longer visit, don’t be over-ambitious: leave time for wandering the streets or relaxing in a bar or café, the way the Parisians do. It’s all part of the experience.

The weather can be unpredictable, so allow for unexpected cold or wet spells at almost any time of year by bringing a pullover and an umbrella. Parisians are casual but chic, so take a few smart outfits for dining out. Only the most expensive restaurants require men to wear a tie.

You can use the major credit cards (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) almost everywhere, and there are cash dispensers (ATMs) all over Paris which display symbols of cards they accept. Make sure you have a few euros in cash when you arrive, however, to pay for metro tickets or a taxi. Bureaux de change offices also abound throughout the city.

No visa is required for citizens of EU countries, the USA, Canada, Australia or New Zealand if you are staying for less than three months, although your passport will need to be valid for at least three months beyond the end of your stay. Citizens of other countries should consult their French embassy or consulate for information before travelling.

For EU citizens there are no limits on goods that can be taken into or out of France, provided they are for your personal use. Outside the EU, you may import the following allowances duty-free: 200 cigarettes or equivalent in tobacco; 4 litres of wine, or 2 litres of wine plus 1 litre of spirits; 60ml of perfume and 250ml of eau de toilette; €350 worth of other items.

As long as you avoid the quieter areas after dark, you will find Paris a reasonably safe city. Crime in busy areas is rare, except for pickpockets. Muggings are not common but theft is, so make sure your hotel room and car are locked and secure.

In case you fall ill, avoid expensive health care by taking out insurance. For any minor health problems, pharmacies are plentiful and marked by a green cross; if one is closed, the address of the nearest open pharmacy will be shown in the window.

Avoid displaying large amounts of banknotes in front of the many beggars and buskers who frequent the metro and some of the city streets. The choice of whether to offer them money is up to you, but do so with small change.

Pickpockets do frequent busy tourist places and public transport so keep a watchful eye on your belongings. Men should never keep their wallet in a back pocket and women should make sure their handbags are closed and held firmly in front of them if possible.

To avoid taking the wrong route, check the number of the line you want on a map and the name of the end station for the direction in which you wish to travel. All signs in metro stations work in this way and the system is simple. There is always a panel on the wall just before you reach the platform; this panel will have a list of the train’s destinations, so you can double check (see Metro).

When using the metro, put your ticket through the machine as you enter, but remember to retrieve it as you should keep it with you until your journey is completed. You will be fined if you are not found to be carrying a validated ticket by an inspector. This also applies to travelling by bus.

It is more difficult to eat badly in Paris than in many cities, but there are places which look for a fast profit at the expense of the tourist who will never return. Avoid signs that say “Menu Touristique ” – they may be fine, but places that attract local people are far better.

When paying a bill, check if service is included – it usually is. If you want to save money, take your drink or snack at the counter. Prices are lower and no tip is expected.

Restaurants and cafés normally include a 10–15 per cent service charge, so only leave a further small gratuity for very good service. Taxi drivers should get 10–15 per cent. Porters are tipped €1.5–3 per bag and chambermaids a similar amount per day, usually left at the end of your stay.

Eurostar trains arrive at Gare du Nord, slightly north of the city centre. The station is served by three metro lines and three RER lines, and has a taxi rank outside, usually manned by assistants to help newly arrived visitors.

Gare du Nord is a large station with several places to eat and drink and shops selling books, newspapers and snacks. The metro station is reached from the concourse and is clearly signposted. There is also a tourist office by the Grandes Lignes exit.

Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle Airport is the arrival point for most international flights, 23 km (14 miles) northeast of the city centre. Its main terminals are some distance apart, so check which one you require when returning. A 24-hour English-language information service is available.

CDG is connected to central Paris by several bus services and (the easiest option) the RER train line B. This links with Gare du Nord, Les Halles and St Michel, among other central stations. Taxis take at least 30 minutes to the centre, sometimes more, and cost about €45.

Orly is 14 km (8.5 miles) south of the city centre and is used by French domestic services and some international airlines. It also has two terminals: Orly-Sud is mainly for international flights; Orly-Ouest is for domestic flights. English-language information is available 6am–11:30pm.

Air France and other bus services link Orly with the city centre and metro stations, while the high-speed and frequent Orlyval train runs to the Orlyval RER station, for onward RER links to central Paris. Taxis take about 30 minutes and cost about 40 euros.

Beauvais Tillé Airport is some 70 km (43 miles) north of Paris and is not used by major airlines, with the exception of the Irish budget airline Ryanair, whose flights from Dublin and Glasgow land here. There is a connecting bus link with Porte Maillot metro station; allow at least an hour for the journey.

All motorways from whichever direction eventually link with Paris’ Boulevard Périphérique (Outer Ring Road). Access to central Paris is via different exits (portes ), so drivers should check their destination before setting off and know which exit they will need.

To park on the street you will need the nerves and ability of a local: they often park illegally, seemingly with impunity. Visitors are advised to use one of the official car parks, which are plentiful.

The French Tourist Office has branches in many major international cities.

The main office is near the Pyramides metro station. It is well stocked with brochures, and has hotel and tour reservation services, a bureau de change and a shop.

This tourist facility serves Paris and the wider Ile de France region. It has a good range of brochures, especially for outside Paris, and can book tours and accommodation.

Two official sites are the state tourist office (www.paris.org) and the city tourist office (www.paris-touristoffice.com), both of which have vast amounts of information and links in French and English. Many major attractions such as the Musée du Louvre (www.louvre.fr) also have their own sites.

If you are able to read French, this free, weekly magazine, found in certain central Paris metro stations, is a good source of information about current events and attractions in the city.

These two events guides can be bought at newspaper stands and are ideal if you want more general information about current exhibitions.

This monthly magazine is published by the American Church and aimed at US residents in Paris. Available from English-language bookshops, it is a good source of information on what is happening in the city. It also has a website www.parisvoice.com

This monthly mailing available via the linked website (www.paris-anglo.com) is sent out in English to visitors, residents and anyone interested in what’s going on in Paris. It covers exhibitions, politics, restaurant openings and closings and offers a question-and-answer service.

Public libraries are found all over Paris and all of them are free to enter. Most have selections of newspapers and magazines, as well as notices that may be useful to visitors. Only Paris residents, however, can borrow material.

The Paris metro system is a cheap and efficient way of getting around the city. The network is comprehensive and the service is very frequent: you seldom have to wait more than a few minutes between trains. The service operates from roughly 5:30am–12:30am and exact times for each line are given at stations.

The RER train system (5am–midnight) is less comprehensive than the metro, having only five lines, but the network goes further into the suburbs. Metro tickets are only valid on RER trains in the central zones (1 and 2). If travelling further, you must buy a separate RER ticket.

Buses run from approximately 6:30am–8:30pm, although some services operate until 12:30am. A Grand Plan de Paris available from metro stations shows all bus routes. Metro tickets are valid in Zones 1 and 2, but you cannot switch between bus and metro on the same ticket. Bus stops show the line route.

There are 470 taxi ranks in Paris and you can also call taxis from a hotel or restaurant. Fares are not expensive, but make sure the meter is switched on when you get on board. The final fare will be more than the metered fare if you have luggage with you or were picked up at a mainline station. Some drivers will not take more than three people in their taxi, to avoid passengers in the front seat.

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (districts), which radiate out in a clockwise spiral from the centre. The first is abbreviated to 1er (Premier) and follow on as 2e, 3e (Deuxième, Troisième) etc. The postal address for the first district is 75001, and again these follow on – the second district is 75002.

The Parisians’ reputation for rudeness is unjustified. Most are polite and will try to help even if you do not speak French (many Parisians speak English). Politeness is all-important, however, so begin any enquiry with “Excusez-moi ” (“Excuse me”).

In this city of heavy traffic cycling might seem like madness, but there is an ever-expanding network of cycle lanes. Get the free map Paris à Vélo (Paris by Bike ) from tourist offices and bike shops. Several shops rent bikes, from about €14 per day.

Parisians are mad about rollerblading and on Friday nights and Sunday afternoons organized balades (outings) often take place, usually beginning at Montparnasse.

The Batobus only runs from May to September, but its six stops link major attractions such as the Eiffel Tower, Louvre Museum and Notre-Dame. Boats run every 20 minutes, from 10am–7pm (until 9pm Jun–Aug). A day pass is advisable if you plan to make more than one journey.

The most popular tours in Paris are on the River Seine and plenty of options are available. The long-established Bateaux-Mouches operate daily with regular daytime and evening dinner cruises but there are many other similar companies.

Tours are available on a wide range of themes and in several languages; Paris Contact and Paris Walks are two of the leading English-language companies. Also check out the website www. paris-expat.com

Several companies now offer guided cycling tours, with multilingual guides, including night-time tours, medieval Paris and as far afield as Versailles.

Less well-known than river trips, these tours take you into the fascinating backwaters of the Paris canal system.Commentaries will often only be in French, but they may include English if there happen to be many English speakers on board.

Numerous bus tours are available – the main tourist office on the Champs-Élysées (see Office de Tourisme de Paris) is the best place to begin. It has all the brochures and can also book any of the tours for you. Tours usually last up to two hours but many of the companies allow you to hop on and off at any of their stops.

Promenades Gourmandes offers tailor-made French- or English-language tours of the city’s markets, food shops, kitchenware shops or anything else in Paris that is of food-related interest.

Paris City Hall organizes tours of parks, gardens and cemeteries, for groups or individuals with a specialist interest. Ask at the tourist office at Pyramides or telephone direct.

Pay a guide to direct you to the best shops and you can then choose from a range of themes.

American company Paris Through Expatriate Eyes runs several tours through the streets of Paris and within some museums, revealing many secrets even Parisians don’t know.

There is a bewildering array of discount travel passes available for use on the metro, buses and trains (see Getting Around Paris, Tickets), so be sure to study them to find the best one for you. You can buy one-, three- and five-day passes, as well as weekly and monthly passes, with options for different zones. Savings can be considerable, provided the pass gives you what you want.

It is perfectly feasible to find acceptable accommodation in central Paris for €30–45 per night, especially if sharing. Even cheaper options include the following hostel groups.

Several companies offer rooms with Parisian families on a bed-and-breakfast basis. Most are located either centrally or close to a metro station, and can cost as little as €25 per person per night, if sharing.

For a coffee or snack, standing at the bar is cheaper than sitting down. In restaurants, the prix-fixe (fixed-price) menus offer good deals and the plat du jour (dish of the day) is usually inexpensive. If you want to sample fine dining, do it at lunchtime when top restaurants usually offer a cheaper menu.

Half-price theatre and concert tickets are available for same-day performances only from kiosks at Place de la Madeleine, Montparnasse station and Châtelet-Les Halles. Cinemas usually offer cheaper seats in the mornings, and on Wednesdays.

Several attractions including the Louvre, Musée Picasso and Arc de Triomphe are free on the first Sunday of each month. The Louvre also reduces its admission price after 6pm on Wednesday and Friday (see Musée du Louvre). The Paris City Passport, available from tourist offices, gives 10–50 per cent off entry to 47 museums.

This gives free admission to 70 museums and monuments and saves queuing and money if planning to visit a number of attractions. There are one-, three- and five-day options: the one-day pass is cheaper if visiting both the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay on the same day. They are available at museums, main metro stations and tourist offices (see Sources of Information) and branches of the Fnac store.

Most hotels charge separately for breakfast and what is on offer varies widely. Some are excellent, but you can save money by opting out and choosing a small snack in a café instead.

As well as being free to visit, many churches also put on free or very inexpensive concerts, both at lunchtime and in the evening. If passing a church, take a look to see if any such concerts are being advertised.

The main tourist office in Paris (see Office de Tourisme de Paris) carries a leaflet called Touristes Quand Même which has detailed information about facilities for the disabled throughout Paris.

Both the Association des Paralysés de France (APF) and the Groupement pour l’Insertion des Personnes Handicappées Physiques (GIHP) provide information on disabled facilities in Paris.

The Paris City Hall organizes numerous specialized tours of the city’s parks, gardens and cemeteries for people with disabilities, including special visits for the blind.

For those with wheel-power who want to go it alone in central Paris, APF have detailed information on negotiating various quarters of the city (see Useful Organizations). Paris comme sur des roulettes is also a useful guide with maps colour coding the quality of the pavements on given routes, access to public conveniences etc.

Holiday Care, in the UK, has a useful list of specialist tour operators, while APF Evasion, in Paris, can also organize your entire stay.

Few stations are easily accessible for wheelchairs and most require a station member of staff to operate lifts to avoid either stairs or escalators. The new Météor line, however, is wheelchair accessible. Main metro and RER stations have a leaflet on transport facilities, called Handicaps et Déplacements en Région Ile-de-France.

Paris buses are slowly being equipped with access for wheelchairs, and all buses already have seats reserved for disabled and elderly persons, war veterans and pregnant women.

It is a legal requirement for taxi drivers to help people with disabilities to get in and out of their vehicle, and to carry guide dogs as passengers. This does not mean that all taxis are able to carry wheelchairs, so do check when booking.

Many older hotels are unsuitable for people with mobility problems as they are without elevators, so it is essential that you check before booking. Newer hotels and the modern hotel chains are usually wheelchair accessible, but always ask when making a reservation.

Metro tickets can be bought in batches of 10 (un carnet ), which offer considerable savings on the price of a single ticket. Each ticket is valid for one journey, no matter how many changes of route are made. They must be stamped when you enter the metro and retained until you leave (see Transport Fines). If staying in Paris for a few days, consider buying a Carte Orange , a pass offering savings on all city transport (see Public Transport).

One type of ticket serves all bus and metro routes and Zones 1 and 2 of the RER network. As with the metro, time-stamp your ticket when boarding the bus and keep it until the end of the journey in case of inspection. This is infrequent, but will result in an automatic fine if you are not found in possession of a valid ticket.

Using the purple metro and bus tickets on the central Zones 1 and 2 of the RER service makes for a convenient way of getting around. See the station maps for the extent of these zones.

Tickets issued by the RATP (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens) are not valid on the mainline SNCF (Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer) services, France’s national rail network. To find out about services to suburban stations, including Versailles, ring the General Information and reservations line.

These can be bought in the usual ways: at the box office of the theatre in question, by telephone or at ticket agencies. Some theatres offer reduced-price tickets for students or stand-by seats 15 minutes before the performance. There is also a half-price ticket kiosk (see Cheap Seats).

Prices are average for a European city, but ask about discounts that may be available for students, over-60s and families. Note that admission prices on Wednesdays are also reduced. Larger cinemas will take credit card reservations over the telephone.

Admission prices are high at all Paris clubs and are often increased at weekends or after midnight, but women can sometimes get in at a reduced rate. Although the admission charge may include a first drink, subsequent drinks will almost always be very pricey.

Some concessionary and discount tickets are available (see Cheap Seats). The Museum Pass saves queueing if you are planning to visit many of the major museums, but otherwise there is no facility for booking tickets for historical attractions in advance. Turning up early is the best option.

Like elsewhere, Paris has its ticket touts, and the usual rules apply. It may get you tickets for an in-demand event, but be wary of forgeries and exorbitantly increased prices. Some Parisians carry a sign saying “cherche une place ” (“I’m looking for a seat”) which might find a ticket at face-value from someone with one to spare.

Food and fashion are two of the things that Paris does supremely well and at all kinds of price ranges. Good wines can be found reasonably inexpensively. Galleries offer artworks from the traditional to the avant-garde and stationery shops tempt buyers with beautiful displays.

These vary enormously, though typically they will be from about 9:30am–7pm Monday to Saturday. Thursday is late-night shopping until 9pm in many shops. Sunday is very quiet but many small shops do open, especially food shops in the morning as people stock up for Sunday lunch. Shops may well close during August.

Different rates of sales tax (TVA) apply to most goods, varying between 5–25 per cent and are generally included in the stated price. No refunds are available on purchases of food, wine or tobacco. On other goods, tax can be refunded to non-EU citizens who spend more than €175 in one shop. Ask the store for the appropriate form.

Paris is still a fashion capital, for men and women, and a range of shopping options is available. There are the genuine haute couture stores, mostly on and near avenue Montaigne (see Designer Shops), but many shops sell cut-price designer labels and there is a great choice of inexpensive fashion too.

No visit to Paris is complete without going to one of the street markets. Don’t let the stalls blind you to the shops, however, which are full of gastronomic delights. Place de la Madeleine has a high concentration of food stores (see Au Verger de la Madeleine).

French fashion isn’t all on the surface. Designers also produce stylish underwear, from subtly erotic to rather blatantly provocative.

Two more items to check out in Paris. There are many shops devoted to both, including the Sephora chain where you can sample hundreds of scents. Prices are usually favourable, too.

Paris’s huge department stores come on a grand scale. You almost need a map to find your way round Galeries Lafayette, while Au Printemps has separate buildings for its various sections (see Au Printemps). BHV sells household goods and a vast array of DIY tools, plus clothes.

Parisians are into music in a big way, and the large music stores reflect this. Try any of the FNAC chain of shops, which stock a huge range of CDs alongside books, videos and computer software. The Virgin Megastore on the Champs-Elysées has several floors, and has shop-floor headphones to let you listen to the stock.

The euro (€), the single European currency, is now operational in 12 of the 15 member states of the EU, including France. Euro banknotes have seven denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. There are also eight coin denominations: €1 and €2, and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 cents (also referred to as centimes!). Both notes and coins are valid and interchangeable within each of the 12 countries. Check on exchange rates against your own currency at the time of travel.

These are widely accepted throughout Paris and you should have no difficulty paying for most things with plastic. The only possible exception is American Express because of the heavy commission it incurs. The Visa card is the most widely used.

There are cash dispensers all over Paris, and each one indicates the cards it accepts. Many of them also operate in several languages. If you know your PIN number, obtaining cash in this way is very easy.

Bureaux de Change exist throughout Paris, especially near tourist hotspots. Many banks also have either a bureau de change or foreign desk. “No commission” signs can be misleading, as they probably mean an unfavourable rate. If changing a large amount, a bank is usually best.

The main post offices in the heart of Paris are at 52 rue de Louvre (open 24 hours) and 71 ave des Champs-Elysées. They do not exchange currency or travellers’ cheques but will exchange international postal cheques, giros and money orders.

For simple letters and postcards home, you can buy stamps at a tabac (tobacconist) rather than try to find a post office. Not all of them advertise the service, but if they sell postcards it is worth asking. Some hotels and newsagents also sell postage stamps.

Paris phone numbers begin with 01 and have eight subsequent digits, usually written in four sets of two digits. If calling Paris from overseas, drop the zero from “01”. Most public telephones require a télécarte (phonecard), which can be bought from post offices, metro stations, tobacconists and a few other outlets.

These aren’t as common as in some cities but are rapidly on the increase and it should not be hard to track one down. The RATP provides some free internet booths (bouquets ) at mainline stations, or try internet café Paris-cy at 8 rue de Jouy, 75004; tel: 01 42 71 37 37.

A wide choice of the major foreign newspapers is available on the day of publication throughout Paris. The closer you are to the Champs-Elysées, the more you will see. The popular International Herald Tribune is published in Paris.

Take care when crossing Paris’s roads. French drivers are not known for respecting pedestrians, though a red light will usually – although not always – make them stop. Pedestrians do not have automatic priority on a crossing, unless lights are also in their favour. On pedestrian crossings, motorists often have the right to turn right, so always look before you start to cross.

Gangs of pickpockets do frequent tourist spots such as the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, as well as wandering the metro system. Some are amateur gangs and easy to spot, but others are more subtle so guard your belongings at all times.

Mugging is less of a problem in Paris than in other big cities, but it can happen. Try not to travel alone late at night and avoid unlit streets. Try to avoid long interchanges between metro stations too: better a longer journey than an unfortunate experience. The main stations you should avoid at night are Les Halles and St Lazare.

There are a number of police stations in central Paris. These are listed in the phone book, or call the Préfecture Centrale for details. All crimes should be reported, if only for insurance purposes.

Parisian men are generally courteous. A firm rebuttal usually halts unwanted attention. If not, try to seek the help of another man: they do not like to see a woman being pestered.

Paris medical treatment is very good but it can be expensive, so be sure to have good health insurance. Visitors from EU countries should be equipped with an E111 form to avoid emergency fees; instructions for use are on the form. All other nationalities should take out private insurance. Report all crimes or lost property, and keep a copy of the statement you make to the police.

English-speaking visitors might want to contact the British or the American Hospitals, both open 24 hours a day. Paris hospitals are listed in the phone book, or call Hôpital Assistance Publique.

If you need an ambulance, dial the emergency number. Fire stations also have ambulances and are qualified to carry out first aid.

A green cross indicates a pharmacy (chemist). They are usually open between 9am–7pm Monday to Saturday. At other times, each pharmacy will have the address of the nearest one open on the door or window. Pharmacies can tell you where the nearest doctor is.